Poppy Porter makes her first international sale
Mentoring Matters
G F Williams
Passionate about gems
A Fresh Breeze at Inhorgenta
Flockage, the flock phenomenon
British Silver Week Update
Next month we re-launch J-dex magazine as ‘The Goldsmith’. The overwhelming response to my innovative new strategy has been, “Why?” and a look of confusion. Well it’s like this.
Six years ago when the internet was the hot thing I thought that an all singing, dancing jewellery trade website would be a great idea. And anyone who knew it wouldn’t cost them any money to agree with me whole heartedly encouraged me to waste vast amounts of my time, energy and worse – money.
I spent a year with my business partner doing the market research, designing the site and finally commissioned a website design company. By that time the internet bubble had truly gone ‘phut’ but I didn’t really notice. We launched our site, to absolutely no acclaim. But through pure managerial ego I persevered. Part of the website contained news and information and to get people interested I decided to publish this in the form of a newsletter to try to get the trade to log-on to www j-dex.com. Sadly few did at the time. The comments I best remember were, “Gordon, as soon as I get a computer I’ll look at your website” and “I don’t think much of your website, but your little newsletter is terrific.”
I’ve published J-dex ten times every year for six years and the original purpose of encouraging the trade to think about the internet has pretty much gone away. Nowadays people see the internet as one arm of a marketing programme with a few companies concentrating on internet marketing entirely. There are success stories but there are far more stories of un-delivered promises by web designers and much wasted time and effort by companies. The most successful projects make the internet service meld seamlessly in with all the other services offered by the company.Delivering information quickly has been one of the great successes of the internet and the part of J-dex.com – The Directory, which has been a success, with 3-4,000 visitors each month and we will be carrying this service on.
The Goldsmith
The purpose of The Goldsmith will be to promote high quality great design and be a selling tool for retailers to use. We will make the magazine as user friendly as possible with consumer-orientated articles and features at the front of the magazine and trade based articles at the back. We are researching how to make the back section of the magazine detachable without destroying the look and feel of it.We will still be visiting foreign trade fairs to bring an international perspective to the magazine and highlight the latest trends from abroad.
In terms of manufacturing in the UK I believe that we are seeing a seismic shift away from medium and large scale manufacturing, which is all happening in the Far East, to highly consumer focused bespoke jewellery which needs knowledge and expertise to make and sell. Two types of manufacturing companies will survive in the UK, those who design specifically for the UK market and manufacture abroad and those who seek niches and service them quickly and efficiently from the UK.
I’m really looking forward to this next stage of the journey and would love your feedback and comments as to how you feel we are doing. Here’s to a great and exciting 2008.
Some years ago a client of ours took great delight in relating to us that by buying a substantial parcel of mixed size and quality emeralds at only US 200 p/ct at a show in Hong Kong, he had saved the huge premium that he purported I was charging for selected single stones. The only advice I could give at this stage, as the deal was done, was be careful how you grade this parcel.
I could see that the parcel was indeed value for money, but with large spread of sizes and potential for resin treated material, this making the ‘real cost’ calculation challenging.
It was almost four years later when the same client showed me the residue from this parcel and it was with some grace and humility that he admitted the purchase was a mistake. I disagreed with him, the purchase was not a mistake, but selling the prime sizes way under the market was; as he had not allocated the costs correctly. The finest stones should have been costed at US $ 500 -800 p/ct and the smallest some with open marks were worth no more than US$ 30 p/ct.
There are many variables as to whether buying a whole parcel is viable. The first to consider for a bespoke manufacturing retailer is who is their core clientel and can they dispose of the rejection quality, and what do I mean by rejection quality. Is it a calibrated size and drop into a cast mount? Is it too cheap to mount by hand? Will it break when trying to set it? Are there open marks on the surface, if not have any resin fillers been used? These are variables before we discuss what do the stones look like!
To be frank, there is no premium set for a single stone emerald. That would suggest you are paying more than the stone is worth?
A parcel would be graded to the various value an experienced dealer feels the market merits and the cost adjusted up or down and the rejection written down to give an averaged return on the parcel.
If there is any premium to be paid for a single stone of any given material, it is based upon market rareity and availability at that time. Value is added by the dealer by making it more available in the market, inspecting the stone establishing its market value, visiting the markets, holding the inventory,
Getting a return on investment, lending on approval, giving the credit, but most of all developing the trust in the product to enable you to have the confidence to sell it.
John Taylor
FGA DGA FNAG
Johnny Rocket
Johnny Rocket’s latest creation hits the catwalk using Cookson’s Brilliante™ Silver
When Johnny Rocket was asked by Charlotte Stockdale, British Vogue stylist, to create a Sterling Silver piece, he used Cookson’s new Brilliante™ Silver. He had this to say about Brilliante™ Silver.
“One word – revolutionary. Having worked with the standard stuff for over 30 years, I am gob smacked; it was an absolute joy to work with. I found it was fantastic to solder first time around - no fire stain even on the larger surfaces. Another interesting point is that I forgot to flux a piece, but low and behold, the piece soldered without flux. I also tried it with some off cuts and it would appear that you don’t need flux with Brilliante™ as long as the metal is clean to start with.
Riveted nicely, no splitting, and swelled out nicely to form blind rivets. Clean swarf off the drill. The polishing was amazing; I hate fire stain. I spent the first two years of my apprenticeship learning to polish it out, and I just wish you had Brilliante™ back then! The finished result was colder in color, but so much brighter. Regular Standard Silver seems to go off as you watch it during the day, whitening and discoloring. Brilliante™ however was great, went in the box with the mop polish intact, cleaned it with a glass cleaner to remove last glove lint and it was mint. This is great stuff from Cookson!Brilliante™ silver is a new benchmark in metal production. I’ve never been so surprised by a product – it changes the rules for silversmiths. Great innovation and stunning results”
Using 5 kilograms of Cookson’s Brilliante™ Silver, the piece features massive bouquets of hand raised poppies entwined with ivy vines and supported by a sculptured thorn body cage.
Recent Jewellery Design graduate Poppy Porter makes first sale to international collector
Emerging designer Poppy Porter was delighted when she made her first sale (after graduating this year from The University College for the Creative Arts, Farnham) to Singaporean collector Tuan Lee. She first met Miss Lee at New Designers where Poppy was exhibiting her graduate work.
“We had a very long chat and she was very enthusiastic about my biggest piece, Podium Neck Wreath (Gold), a neck piece made of anodised titanium inlaid with photographs using my own developed technique”
Miss Lee then returned to Singapore and Poppy assumed that she had changed her mind on purchasing the piece. However, recently she called Poppy and purchased the neckpiece over the phone.
“When I put the phone down I thought, “Did that just happen?” It was wonderful to have my work vindicated in such a way. Podium Gold was my biggest piece in my degree collection “Racing Lace”. I was ecstatic for days afterwards!”
Poppy is currently creating new work that develops the themes of Formula 1, Tudor and Stuart lace collars and cuffs and the Japanese kimono she began to explore in her graduate “Racing Lace” collection.
The unusual work of the Royal College of Art graduate Ornella Iannuzzi has caught the eye of Talent Zone in London’s East End.
Ornella grows the jewellery – mostly one-offs, or in a series of up to twelve in an electrolysis tank. The organic look comes found found items such as leaves, mushrooms and twigs. She said, “Usually I pick up lots of stuff when I go for a walk in the Lee Valley, Epping Forest or the Alps when I go home to see my family,” explains Ornella.
“The aim of my work is to express, through jewellery, the beauty of Nature,” she says.
BetterThanDiamond.com plans to double production of its Takara lab-grown yellow diamonds in 2008 due to higher demand for the stones.
The increase in demand resulted from increased customer awareness of the value for money offered by lab-grown diamonds, being up to one-seventh the price of a natural diamond according to the company.
GJEPC Criticizes DTC for Fewer Sightholders
India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council(GJEPC)held a special press conference and spoke out against the reductions in the Diamond Trading Company’s (DTC) new list of sightholders warning that the company was causing consolidation in the market bringing business only to the select few. GJEPC also called upon DTC to reconsider the list and the group asked India’s government to intervene to ensure that growth in the Indian industry is sustained. DTC reduced its number of sightholders from 93 to 79, with Indian-owned firms in both Belgium and India seeing the most significant cuts.
Reported by Rapaport
Gem-A Conference 2007 Highlights Gems of the Orient: Pearls and Jade
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, or Gem-A, held its annual conference at The Renaissance London Heathrow Hotel on Sunday 28 October. In response to the rising interest in the cultured pearl market and in jade stimulants and treatments, the focus was Gems of the Orient: Pearls and Jade.
Meeting its expectations as a highlight on the gemmological calendar, distinguished international speakers at the Conference presented the latest gemmological information, from green coloration in jadeite jade to the formation of a cultured pearl. Speakers included Shigeru Akamatsu, George Bosshart, Professor Dr. Henry A H‰nni, Roger Keverne, Mimi Ou Yang Chiu Mei, Gaiti Rabbani, Kenneth Scarratt and Elisabeth Strack. See the attached list of speakers.
The Gem-A Conference 2007 drew a large crowd of professional gemmologists, gem dealers and gem enthusiasts and provided an perfect opportunity for continual education as well as networking. As in previous years, sponsorship meant that 2007 Gem-A Diploma graduates were welcomed to the conference at a nominal graduate rate. The optional events over the following days included the Gem-A Graduation Ceremony in the splendour of Goldsmiths’ Hall, a private viewing of the Crown Jewels, a one-day pearl workshop and a Gem Discovery Club talk on the history of the pearl trade. Altogether a full and fascinating programme for all involved with gems.
MENTORING MATTERS
An Exciting New Mentoring Programme for Jewellery Graduates
Palmer Hamilton Partnership are delighted to announce the launch of a new mentoring project for recent UK wide jewellery graduates who are now based in London. Funding has been secured from the London Development Agency through the City Fringe Partnership to support this exciting new project.
Mentoring Matters will connect 20 self-motivated, enthusiastic jewellery designers with industry professionals of the highest calibre to advise, guide and sustain them over one year in 2008.The programme is keen to attract applications from black, Asian and minority ethnic jewellers who we hope will represent half of the group selected.
The mentoring programme is being run to create a support structure that will provide emerging jewellery designers with access to a sympathetic ear from a wide range of ‘industry insiders’ - in what is often a lonely business.
After the year of 1-1 support from knowledgeable and experienced mentors the selected group will have the opportunity to meet event and show organisers, retailers and key figures from the jewellery industry. They will be able to showcase their work and discuss the progress they made during the programme and prove that mentoring does indeed matter.
The mentoring programme will run from January 2008 – January 2009 and all mentees and mentors who are interested can find out more information as well as application forms on the Change Act Share website at
www.change-act-share.org.uk
Sarah Palmer
Palmer Hamilton Partnership Ltd.
Tel: 07963 301 453
e-mail: sarah@palmerhamilton.co.uk
web: www.palmerhamilton.co.uk
creative practical sustainable
DIAMOND CELEBRATIONS
S. W A R R E N D E R & Co., one of Surrey and South London’s finest jewellers and NAG member, held a charity fundraising reception on Wednesday 28th November 2007 to toast the company’s Diamond Anniversary. Now in to its third generation the family run jewellery business is 60 years old this year!
“As an independent Surrey based company, 60 years in business is something to celebrate! We especially wanted to share the occasion with our customers and benefit a local charity.”
The event was held at the prestigious Cuddington Golf Club, Banstead, Surrey where over one hundred clients and colleagues joined the celebrations. More importantly the Luxury Raffle and donations raised £1,000 for Richard Warrender
020 8643 481
richard@warrenders.co.uk
www.warrenders.co.uk
A Fresh Breeze at inhorgenta europe:
The “Young and Wild” Create a Stir in Hall C2
inhorgenta europe has developed into one of the most important stepping stones for young designers of the next generation over the past years. The focal point of this is the Designer Hall C2: There is hardly any other place where so many young jewellery designers – there were more than 300 at the last inhorgenta europe – gather to present their collections. Regardless of whether intricate felt compositions, earrings made of “green gold” or pendants in the form of truffle chocolates, the young and wild show their striking, refreshing jewellery design there. No wonder that the former insider tip “C2” became a mandatory event for gallery owners, resellers and journalists quite some time ago. The course is often set for a professional career in the jewellery industry there.
For example, the inhorgenta europe Innovation Prize, which offers jewellery design
pointing the way to the future, is much coveted. But young, talented people can also make a name for themselves in other jewellery fields. As a new highlight for inhorgenta europe 2008, a platinum honorary prize will also be awarded in collaboration with the Platinum Guild. The participants profit enormously from the public interest, which they get from this. And many a young and wild designer is often back again at inhorgenta europe as an established designer the next year.
This is reason enough to ask jewelry designers from throughout the world, in which project they are currently working and how their participation at inhorgenta europe has affected the further course of their businesses.
Marcin Zaremski, Warsaw, Poland:
“inhorgenta europe is the most important trade fair in Europe for me. But I especially like Hall C2, because it simply has the best level of jewellery design. This great contest motivates me every year to work even harder, because the competition is really not sleeping here. inhorgenta europe makes a lot possible for me and my business. On one hand, we can cultivate contacts to existing customers, and on the other hand we can acquire new ones. In my life and in my design, simplicity is one of my most important principles. Participation in inhorgenta europe simplifies my business life enormously and consequently suits me optimally.”
Leslie Maja Pˆtz, Karlsruhe, Germany, inhorgenta Innovations Prize 2007:
“In my work, it is a question of creating innovative but timeless jewelry in an
unpretentious way with a clear language of shapes, which radiates something special and unique. My first exhibit at inhorgenta this year was really worth it. I had the chance to exhibit in the “Brand New – New Brand” Forum. This is an outstanding chance for newcomers, because the forum has a special value for visitors. The distinction with the Innovation Prize 2007 was confirmation for me and my jewellery, and it brought me a lot of valuable contacts to jewellery gallery owners and other jewellery designers.
FLOCKAGE: THE FLOCK PHENOMENON
Zoe Robertson jewellery designer and lecturer at the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University has been invited to showcase her new collection of work “flock it!” as part of Flockage: the flocked Phenomenon
ABOUT THE EXHIBITION:
Flockage: the flock phenomenon - an exhibition that explores the unique
qualities of flock in art, design and culture at the Russell-Cotes Art Gallery
& Museum, Bournemouth Dorset UK.
Dates: 15 Jan - 1 June 2008 - Free admission
Supported by the Arts Council & The Textile Society’s Museum, Archive /Repository Award 2007.
As a ubiquitous material that enjoys enduring popularity, flock is literally part of the fabric of our social, cultural and economic history. Flockage: the flock phenomenon is a unique exhibition that aims to explore flock’s fascinating forms and functions. This unique exhibition will showcase flock’s use and status within design through a rich and colourful array of historical and contemporary examples and perspectives brought together for the first time.
The exhibition will present a lively consideration of the qualities of flock - how the feel and look of flock is used to maximise the appeal and use of objects; from kitsch ornaments to interior design. The exhibition will create a dynamic, colourful and sensory experience.
The exhibition will showcase a wide range of exhibits on loan from collections and companies. Exhibits from key design companies and manufacturers will include, as examples, the work of Cole and Son (Wallpaper) Ltd, The Ashley Wilde Group, English Eccentrics, Johnny Egg, Bonar Floors, Anglepoise, Thomas and Vines Limited and Qualplast Limited. The exhibition will present a fascinating array of cross-discipline flock examples and will showcase work from numerous international designers and companies.
Flockage will present flock work by key artists and designers including; Elaine Igoe, Research Student, RCA; Zoe Robertson, jeweller, Girli Concrete and Natasha Lewer - whose flocked ceramic sculptures are designed specifically for visitors with visual impairment to enjoy. Newly commissioned flock work will also be exhibited.
The exhibition involves The European Flock Association and brings together a host of companies and individuals that make and create items with flock. The venue for the exhibition is the prestigious and luxurious Russell-Cotes Art Gallery and Museum, Bournemouth - a truly sumptuous setting on the south coast of England.http://russell-cotes.bournemouth.gov.uk/hoshis.htm.
The exhibition is co-curated by Pam Langdown and Kirsten Hardie, of the Flock Friendly Group, in partnership with the Russell-Cotes Art Gallery and Museum.
• For further information on Flockage: the flock phenomenon – the exhibition & symposium please contact:
Kirsten Hardie kirsten@missbetty.co.uk or Pam Langdown flockage@googlemail.com
Telephone: 01202 314600
Russell-Cotes Art Gallery & Museum
Russell-Cotes Road
East Cliff
Bournemouth BH1 3AA
UK
Russell-Cotes Art Gallery & Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays (closed Christmas Day and Good Friday), from 10.00am – 5.00pm T. +44 (0)1202 451 858; E. r-c.enquiries@bournemouth.gov.uk.
• The symposium - Flockage: the flock phenomenon will be held at Hotel Miramar, Bournemouth on the 7th February 2008 to complement the exhibition. It will explore further key aspects of flock through a range of dynamic keynote speakers. Symposium delegate rate: £55.00 (concessionary rate: £35.00 = Full Time student / Member of the Textile Society)
F.Sinclair – The Hatton Garden hot shots.
Darren Cumbe and Mark Windser from F.Sinclair in London’s jewellery quarter won The Purdey Challenge first prize at the inaugural City A.M and Hotel du Vin Shooting Cup. Darren and Mark won themselves and their partners a two-night stay for two people at a Hotel du Vin of their choice. They received their prizes from Nigel Beaumont, chairman of Purdey.
STEPHEN TYLER LTDBANDS OF DESIRE COLLECTION
The Stephen Tyler Bands of Desire Collection is enjoying continued success with its diverse selection of diamond set bands in a number of settings and finishes in a style that sets it apart from other designer/manufacturer’s collections of today.
The concept of the Bands of Desire Collection is one of ‘Commitment’ – to encompass and symbolise commitment in any loving relationship. These rings are a wonderful way for anyone to express this commitment and this concept provides an exciting and very saleable opportunity for the retailer with far more marketability than other available collections which have an exclusive wedding only appeal.
In February 2008 Stephen Tyler will be providing stockists of the Collection with a striking new perspex display with moving LED backplate drawing the attention of any passing customer with the lifestyle images depicted. In addition to this Stephen Tyler is embarking on a new and sustained advertising campaign leading the customer to the retailer from its list of stockists shown on the www.stephentyler.com website.
SAFEGUARD JEWELLERY VALUATION SERVICE NOW IN LONDON
SafeGuard Jewellery Valuations in Hatton Garden - Steven Jordan Joins the Team.
SafeGuard Jewellery Valuations, a division of The Birmingham Assay Office, are now offering a trade valuation service in Hatton Garden. The UK’s largest provider of independent, expert jewellery and watch valuations, SafeGuard have appointed valuer Steven Jordan, FGA DGA, who will be based in the AnchorCert Gemmological Office, also operated by The Birmingham Assay Office, at 88-90 Hatton Garden.
With Steven’s appointment, a drop-off SafeGuard Valuation Service is now available in London, with most Valuations being available for collection within a week. Non-account customers with occasional items for Valuation can pay by credit card or cash.
Steven brings a wealth of experience gained through his work which has focussed on the high net worth London sector. He has worked in the jewellery industry since 1973, mainly in managerial or valuer positions, and in 1993 he started his own independent valuation service, eventually setting up an office in Cambridge.
During his long career Steven has undertaken specific projects such as collecting and cataloguing jewellery for over fifty regional, fine art and European sales for Phillips Auctioneers of New Bond Street. He also had the privilege of valuing all the masonic jewels, over 25,000 items, at the Grand Lodge Museum in Great Queen Street London.
Steven is a keen gemmologist, a member of the Society of Expert Witnesses and a member of the Society of Jewellery Historians. He is very enthusiastic about his new role with SafeGuard and the opportunity to work in Hatton Garden.
”I pride myself on offering an impartial, unbiased and honest valuation. I am pleased to be associated with SafeGuard with its good reputation the backup that such a well structured organisation can offer and it’s great to be based in the Garden. Some of my ancestors had workshops in the area in the eighteenth and nineteenth century; I feel I’ve come home” he said.
Carla Goodfellow, Operations Director, sees Steven’s appointment as a major landmark. “We have been looking for an expert to fulfil some of the potential we had identified in Central London and we are delighted to have another high calibre valuer join the SafeGuard team” says Carla. “Steven has excellent experience of the upmarket trade and we are confident that this new initiative will prove extremely successful”
For more information about the SafeGuard service please phone 0121 262 1024 or visit www.safeguardvaluations.com
British Silver Week – an up-date
Last September British Silver Week was just an idea. So to go from a standing start to so much enthusiasm and activity so fast is truly amazing. We are delighted that the Goldsmiths’ Company have agreed to be our lead patron and the launch of British Silver Week 2008 will take place in the Livery Hall of the Goldsmiths’ Company in London. The Birmingham Assay Office and Sheffield Assay Office have also agreed to be patrons. We are working with the silversmiths and event holders registered with us to introduce one to the other to make exciting events. The full list of patrons, sponsors, events and participating silversmiths will be officially announced on 1st April.
We are asking registered silversmiths to design and make a limited edition piece (up to 5 copies can be made) to be displayed at British Silver Week events from 9th - 16th June 2008 and at special events after British Silver Week.
We have sent out over 150 information packs to the finest silversmiths across the UK. We are sending out further information packs as requested.
We have personally contacted potential selling event holders - top jewellery retailers and galleries across the UK - they have received information packs too.
We have designed a special additional assay mark that will be held at each Assay Office and applied to each item created for British Silver Week.
We have requested that each silversmiths supply high-resolution 300dpi images of their piece by 17th March 2008 for inclusion in the catalogue and other publicity material.
The launch for press and sponsors is by invitation only on 9th June 2008 at the Goldsmiths’ Hall where 30 silversmiths will be chosen to display their work.
Gordon Hamme
e-mail gordon.hamme@britishsilverweek.co.uk
Tel: 0795 686 5423
Get your rocks on! Spring Fair launches the newest trends in jewellery
Spring Fair February 2008 sees an impressive selection of 800 British and International jewellery suppliers. Spring Fair is globally renowned and offers one of the biggest selections of fine, designer and fashion jewellery.
Spring Fair attracts the industry’s most established names and the hottest newcomers. “Why launch at the Spring Fair? Because simply, it’s the biggest and best on the UK jewellery calendar” say Revlis London.
Jewellery buyers can expect the biggest selection of international brands in the UK. Exhibitors are coming from India, Thailand, Peru, Iran, Brazil, Greece, Turkey, Australia, Hong Kong and Israel. Buyers from all over the world will also look to Spring Fair to source new trends with 100 new exhibitors expected to attend across three halls.
Spring Fair 2008 sees suppliers offering fantastic new products. A bold use of colour, imaginative new motifs and stones, and a return to chunky statement pieces. Coloured precious stones, including pink diamonds, red tormaline, tanzanite and orange sapphires are appearing within new fine jewellery collections across Hall 17. Exhibitor Fameo offers coloured fine jewellery in modern angular settings. UK exhibitor PJ Watson is showing richly coloured stones in hand made rings. Rich purple tanzanite, brilliant mandarin garnets, all set with diamonds, appear in platinum, white gold and yellow gold settings. Gemex, offers buyers a strong range of colourful precious stones in rings and pendants.
Fantasy & Fairytale are one of the key trends for 2008 as dragons, frogs, thorns, skull & cross bones, crowns and hearts all feature in pieces across the three main jewellery halls. Italian exhibitor Nomination (Hall 18) combine gold, diamond and purple amethyst in their new dragon pendant. Foxy Orignals offer buyers a dipped pewter version of the flat pendant, featuring a butterfly in Hall 18. Franziska Von Drachafels’ work for Unique (Hall 18) reveals an array of fairy tale inspired pieces including red hearts and crowns. Hearts feature across the show in brooches, rings and pendants. UK designer Martine Wester (Hall 19) and Balagan’s Sukie Lau (Hall 18) both come to Spring Fair with a range of hearts in bracelets and pendants. British jewellery brand Martick (Hall 18) also offers fashion pieces in a range of colourful heart motifs.
Exhibitor Balagan says; “We are seeing a huge interest in our chunky fashion led pieces with colour and boldness of design leading the way”. Bold statement pieces can be seen throughout Spring Fair. New international exhibitor Jackie Brazil (Hall 19) offers chunky bracelets, rings and earrings in bold 1960’s colours entitled Tropicalia, inspired by Rio in the 1960’s. Chunky yet elegant bracelets can also be seen in the Modernist Collection of bangles by Revlis, and Lucas Jack (Hall 18).
Babette Wasserman’s (Hall 18) new Weave Collection also offers a different take on the chunky look with woven steel bracelets. Chunky rings in gold and silver come from new-comer to Spring Fair, Greek label Oxette (Hall 19).
Spring Fair offers buyers a strong selection of men’s jewellery, including cufflinks, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Interesting combinations of materials appear. Steel, titanium and platinum come with leather, black agate, tiger eye and coloured resins. Balagan’s “Steam” range, Azuni (Hall 18) and Nomination’s (Hall 18) ranges are just some of the contemporary men’s collections on show.
With an un-paralled selection of suppliers, all under one roof, Spring Fair is the UK’s biggest and best showcase for new jewellery for 2008. www.springfair.com will list all the suppliers throghout the year. The site will also promote Spring Fair product trails including Ethical Brands, Creative Britain, Spring Fair Exclusive and Export.
FINE JEWELLERY ATTRACTS GLITTERING SUPPLIERS TO HALL 17
With the biggest selection of fine jewellery in the UK, buyers can source 18ct gold, diamond jewellery, precious metals and loose precious stones at Spring Fair Hall 17. Attracting the biggest high-spending jewellery buying audience in the UK, 9,898 visitors in 2007 stated ‘jewellery, clocks & watches’ as their main reason for attending Spring Fair. A staggering total of almost 20,000 visitors stated an interest in jewellery at the fair.
Spring Fair is pleased to welcome back the Emagold Pavilion to the show. The quality jewellery manufacturer’s group, exhibitors include the cream of fine jewellery and packaging. Domino, Curteis Ltd, Saunders Shepherd & Co Ltd, T A Durant Ltd, Centre Jewellery, Cookson Precious Metals and Hean Studio Ltd are just some of the companies within the pavilion. New to Emagold and Spring Fair is Stubbs & Co (UK) Ltd. Also new to Emagold is OJS Jewellery Manufacturers. The Emagold group also unveils a new look Pavilion at Spring Fair 2008. Emagold President, John Coupland of Saunders Shepherd Group explains: “The new design is a little reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House, with distinctive spinnaker sail shapes rising well above the stand which should be visible from across the entire hall. We like to think that the Pavilion is a one-stop shop for the discerning buyer.”
Kayman Award winning designer Fei Liu will be attending Spring Fair for the first time with Phoenix England in Hall 17. A remarkable young jeweller, Fei Liu makes glamorous and colourful pieces that will certainly excite buyers who are new to his work. Other key suppliers in Hall 17 include Fameo Ltd, PJ Watson and Tivon Fine Jewellers. Ariel Tivon, whose company is showing as part of the Ethical Brands product trail says: “The bar is even higher this year – our collections will be the best and most exciting yet!” Loose gemstones are also available in Hall 17. Newcomers Ichydo join existing suppliers Ceylon Gems and Bluestreams Ltd.
New exhibitors in Hall 17 include XMC International who offer diamond jewellery, Tagit Ltd and Watts Brothers Ltd both offer supplies in packaging & display. German packaging company CH Dahlinger GmbH & Co are returning to Spring Fair for the first time in eight years. Wilhelm Depner from Dahlinger says: “Spring Fair…is the perfect time to present the annual new collection to the UK market”. Also returning to Spring Fair is Rohm from Austria. Other international newcomers in Hall 17 include German exhibitors Caram E.K and Di Perle GmbH and the International Gemological Institute from Antwerp. Iran Turkis are also coming to the show for the first time from Iran.
Spring Fair continues to be the biggest jewellery event in the UK. Expect to sparkle at Spring Fair 2008 as major diamond exhibitors include David Bercott Ltd, Dante Cenci Ital Gold, Henig Diamonds, Antwerp Diamonds Ltd., E Alexander & Sons Ltd and Worldgem UK Ltd.
For a full list of all the suppliers in Hall 17 please visit www.springfair.com where all the product trails will be highlighted including Spring Fair Exclusive, Ethical Brands and Creative Britain.
Leading retail guru ‘Mary Queen of Shops’ to headline Spring Fair 08’s Future Trends Stage.
Spring Fair Birmingham 2008 announces a pioneering new Future Trends Stage in association with WGSN.com, featuring keynote speaker Mary Portas among a stellar line-up of high profile retail and trend experts. Offering exclusive, highly valuable trend and retail information, Spring Fair’s Future Trends Stage will be a major destination and essential viewing for buyers and merchandisers from multiples to independents. Only available at Spring Fair, the future-focused programme of seminars will provide directional insights into what will gear retail for 2008-09.
Retail marketing guru Mary Portas ‘Queen of Shops’ is quite possibly one of the UK’s foremost authorities on retail and brand communication. As Creative Director at London’s most respected retail and branding and communications agency, Yellowdoor and previously Creative Director of Harvey Nichols, Mary is recognized throughout the trade as the ‘Queen of Shops. In May 2007 a major BBC2 TV series ‘Mary Queen of Shops’ went behind the scenes of the fashion retail world by rescuing a series of ailing boutiques. A second series will air in Spring 2008.The dynamic programme of leading speakers and content includes Consumer Demographic trends from Research International, Store Design and retail consultants Fitch and Design Influences from Sebastian Conran. The full programme will cover inspirational colour, design and consumer trend influences as well as case studies from leading retailers sharing insights and experience on customer service, multi-channel retailing, developing online retail offer, eco-sustainable retailing and much more.
Just Brothers
Just Brothers, now in their 45th year of successfully supplying packaging to the Jewellery Trade, are please to announce the introduction of their new “Consort” range of wood cases in a Black lacquered finish with all Cream interior which will compliment the already extensive range of cases and boxes available from stock. Just Brothers also offers a wide range of off-the-shelf displays in Black, Cream, White and Acrylic as well as Carrier bags.
For a catalogue of stock items, or to request a call from a representative to discuss your requirements, including our bespoke service, please contact:
Just Brothers & Co., Roeder House, Vale Road. London N4 1QA
Tel No. 020 8880 2505 Fax No. 020 8802 0062 E-Mail info@justbros.co.uk
Putting a Hex on Spring Fair Birmingham
The Birmingham-based designer jewellery company, JA Jewellery is to debut on the Design Space Stand at Spring Fair 2008 (Hall 18, Stand DC2) where it will be showcasing its distinctive high-quality, contemporary jewellery for both men and women.
Of special interest is its ‘Put a ‘HEX’ on you’ range; inspired by Ireland’s Giants’ Causeway. This unusual, hand-made range, which has attractive hexagonal components, comprises rings, earrings, pendants, cufflinks, bracelets and tie slides. It is available in sterling silver, and both 9ct and 18ct gold.
Attractive black and silver branded packaging is provided.
Retail prices start at £60.
Sutton Tools
Long established family firm, Sutton Tools, has announced today the launch of a new service and range to add to their increasing portfolio of jewellery tools, equipment and materials. Over 450 best-selling gold and silver materials including sheet, wire, chain, findings, solder and wedding ring blanks are now in stock and can be bought off the shelf from Sutton Tools, with no wait and importantly, no minimum order.
With showrooms located conveniently in the heart of Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, Suttons also offer nationwide next day delivery so that businesses from outside the West Midlands area can benefit from this service. Same-day access to 1,000s of additional precious metal products, either over the counter or by mail order, gives them a unique position in the marketplace.
“We are constantly looking at ways of improving the service we provide our customer”, enthuses Maggie Nichols, Managing Director of Sutton Tools. “Businesses want instant access to tools and materials and for the first time we can provide all this under one roof.”
“2008 will be full of action,“ continues Maggie. “We are moving into our 125th year as a family-owned business, with new plans and exciting challenges ahead.”
To kick-start their 125th celebrations and to launch their new service, the staff of Sutton Tools will be throwing open an invitation to join them on their stand at the Spring Fair (Hall 17 G50) on Tuesday 5 February at 4.00 pm for celebratory cakes and a chance to view the new range.
For further information please contact:
Joshua Kindness
Sales Manager
T: 0845 094 1884
The Cook Book – A taste of the future
This February at the Spring Fair held at the NEC, Cookson is serving up a feast of products with the release of a totally redesigned and refreshingly different catalogue, The Cook Book.
The Cook Book cements Cookson’s reputation as the U.K’s foremost supplier of precious metals, components, materials and tools to the jewellery trade, in an easy-to-use format, with an attractive new look and most importantly, over 1000 more products than ever before.
Whether you’re a designer, a working jeweller, a hobbyist, a student or even just looking into the possibilities of making jewellery, The Cook Book has just what you’re looking for. Simple to order products, at trade prices, that are in stock, ready for immediate delivery.
The Cook Book’s menu includes bullion, findings, wedding ring blanks, tools, and new this year, gemstones, stringing materials, earrings, boxes and books along with the best next-day delivery service in the industry.
The Cook Book has more than 600+ pages, packed with everything the jeweller could need – a complete resource and one-stop shop in one delicious catalogue.
To collect a FREE Cook Book, which would normally cost £10, visit Cookson’s stand at the Spring Fair at the NEC, 3rd-7th February , Hall 17 Stand D29.
GJIS Ltd - Global Jewellery Insurance Services
Hall 17/C39
We have been communicating and exchanging information with our clients for 30 years in a manner that others are just beginning!
Our new web site is another 1st for the Jewellers Block Insurance Market providing even more efficient routes and enhancements to improve the way we do business and save you time and money.
The concept of the new website has evolved and been developed from the very successful GJIS database management tools.
The website, dedicated to the Jewellery Trade, provides technical advice on many subjects with up to date references on Risk Management, Intruder Alarms, CCTV and Health and Safety.
In addition there are On Line facilities enabling you to:
• View and manage your commercial data
• View and download your insurance documents from the Client Folders
• Arrange Insurance for single shipments, sendings or goods in transit
• Premium Payment on line
Learn more and visit us on stand C39 Hall 17!
MARTICK JEWELLERY
Exciting new collections for spring season
These beautifully constructed sterling silver pendants are just one of our thousand and one hearts collection. All the products are hand made and most are assembled in house.This year our designers are using beautiful bohemian glass in “cherry baby” colours for valentine’s gifts.
Exotic materials including shagreen in fashionable shades are another speciality.
C. L. EDWARDS
Hall 17 17A19
Exciting times at C. L. Edwards with a more Customer focused approach, extended core category enhancements, superb new range extensions and new range layouts. The Spring product launch will see new contemporary Silver Collections, new styles of both modern and traditional Gold designs in rose, white and not forgetting the renaissance of yellow, new black and white Diamonds, Diamonds with semi-precious within the highly successful Exquisite Diamond Collection and also further developments for the Elegance Pearl Collection.
New catalogue to be launched in March 2008 with new concept Point of Sale and new stylish cabinets all ensuring that the requirements of our ever growing Customer base is catered for.
Goldmajor
Goldmajor has captured one of the key colours of 2008 with this delicate trio of a collection named ”aqua” of a pendant on triple suede, matching earrings and ring.The popular and classic silver marquise shapes hint at a floral design, with a light scattering of blue topaz, creating a fresh and feminine style. RRP£40-120
Goldmajor presents “dÈcor” exuding luxurious sophistication, this glamorous collection of earrings, pendant and matching bracelet in marcasite, silver and turquoise, is heavily influenced by the 1950’s styling, so evident now and continuing into 2008. RRP£30-120
Goldmajor’s mosaic gobstopper sized amber collection of a bracelet, pendant, earrings and matching necklace oozes elegance, warmth and luxury.
The cracked design within the amber gives the mosaic styling that is so favourable at this time. RRP£35-175]
JW mans jewellery collections”speed” using steel and carbon fibre are cool yet sophisticated, dominant and incredibly sexy. Dripping in masculinity, the clean lines of steel and onyx of the cufflinks and bangle are strong and will attract many a man (and women!), whilst the carbon fibre encased in steel of the pendant is elegant and subtle, yet extremely classy. RRP£40-70.
March Insurance Solutions
TH March, the UK jewellery insurance experts, now offer March Insurance Solutions- a concept that allows TH March to take the customer through the benefits of different types of insurance and to establish what they are seeking. A new transactional website also allows for online applications. Customers can be referred to the website and will be able to choose whether to arrange immediate cover through the transactional page under the March Plus scheme - one of the options under March Solutions, or discuss other alternatives with T H March. March Plus is specially negotiated jewellery insurance aimed at higher valued items exceeding the March Guard and March Guard 3 limits. March Plus covers against the physical loss or damage to insured items of jewellery without any excess applying.
DichroliciousHall 18 Stand F4
Dichrolicious has a new range of fiery opal jewellery with contemporary designs set in high quality sterling silver. The collection includes pendants, rings, bracelets, bangles and even matching earrings. Also new is an attractive range of faceted stones, including amethyst, blue topaz, smoky quartz and citrine in clean, modern designs.
The “White Satin” collection has grown further with the addition of some intriguing designs, as have both “Dichro +” and “Magic Earth.” All five ranges can be seen at NEC Spring Fair, Hall 18, Stand F4.
For further information call 01323 485605.”
trollbeads Launches exciting new jewellery at Birmingham Spring Fair 2008
The original and authentic Danish trollbeads is making a big splash at the start of 2008 with the launch of a special selection of brand new distinctive glass, silver and gold beads, necklaces and rings; all in trollbead’s own unique and individual design.
Details of the new jewellery are being kept tightly under wraps until the Birmingham Spring Fair when all the new collections will be seen for the very first time in Hall 17 Stand K60.
The new beads and glass kits, necklaces and rings join trollbeads exclusive range of high quality individual beads depicting over 400 intricate designs.
Now well established in the UK market, trollbeads is targeted exclusively at high quality independent retailers and has developed a committed following throughout the country and established a network of stockists; a testament to the quality and individuality of the jewellery.
“The diversity of design and materials used in the new collections are guaranteed to make an impact”, commented Sarah Morfoot of Fable Trading, trollbeads sole UK distributor.
“We can’t say too much about the individual items before the launch but I can guarantee that they will create a stir amongst dedicated fans of the trollbeads jewellery collection and will attract new customers to the trollbeads brand.”
Now well established in the UK market, trollbeads is committed to developing the existing range and to providing a first class support to retailers throughout the country.
Fable Trading will also be launching a new retailer catalogue, point of sale and quality branded packaging to support the new collections which will be available in jewellery outlets from February 2008.
All of the new beads, necklaces and rings are available from February 15th from Fable Trading and can be seen for the first time at The Birmingham Spring Fair from 3rd - 7th February 2008.
BRANSOM CREATES BESPOKE SOLUTION FOR
FIELDS’ CONCESSIONS
Ireland’s fastest growing jewellery retailer, Fields Retail, has chosen the Bransom Bsmart point-of-sales system to manage its seven Angelique concessions in Arnotts and Brown & Thomas in stores across Ireland.
The concession business poses a unique problem for retailers, as department stores usually require all sales to go through their own tills. Yet the retailer with limited office space needs all the normal office functions as well as stock control and email.
The Bransom system will deal with all of Fields’ sales, deposits, valuations, stock control, special orders and stock transfers as well as in-store stock taking via mobile scanners, with results being checked for immediate reconciliation. Fast broadband links connect the stores directly to the company’s Bsmart head office network for complete stock management and financial reports plus messaging and email facilities.“Christopher Garland, managing director of Bransom Retail Systems explains; “The secret of a successful retail business in the 21st century is to control and manage stock levels and to make sound purchasing decisions. Bransom’s Bsmart system delivers the relevant information, which enables retailers to do this with confidence.
“The solution provided by Bransom uses the latest in flat panel technology which has a touch screen for speed and ease of processing, yet with all the communication ports necessary at point of sale. Many concessions choose laptop or handheld solutions. However, these options take up more space or have limited application and connectivity. Security and fragility are other concerns.”
The Bransom Bsmart point-of-sales system has a robust construction yet is flexible enough to fix to a standard wall bracket or stand and works equally well on a pull-out drawer as used by another Bransom client, Kabiri Jewellers in Selfridges’ London store. As with all Bransom products, Bsmart is supported by staff training programmes and personal service by their technical support team.
DAVRAN
Davran bought Dyson & Hussey Ltd, locket manufacturers some ten years ago, and have continued manufacturing their fine handmade lockets ever since.
We offer a specials service, which I am often told, is second to none. Davran stock several different lockets plain in 18ct White or 18ct yellow gold. These can be hand engraved to order, with one our traditional designs.
We keep extensive stocks of 9ct Yellow, 9ct Red, 9ct white or silver lockets plain ready for engraving, and a small stock engraved for a quick delivery, our “Core range”.
Davran have not gone for the quick buck, having lockets made in the Far East, we still make them in Birmingham so we can control the quality and delivery. After all it does not matter how cheap a locket is if it is “out of stock” when you have a customer in the shop looking for one.
As a small family company, now with the third generation firmly established, we have every hope of continuing for another generation, a purveyor of fine Lockets to the trade.
To order phone John on Tel: 0121 523 1662
From modest beginnings in 1967, Ortak has grown to become one of the UK’s leading designers and manufacturers of gold and silver jewellery. With suggested retail prices from around £25 to the most expensive five strand gold and diamond pendant at over £1,000, the range on offer from the company is both wide and varied. The traditional skills of the silversmith, handed down over decades, are still in use in the company’s state-of-the-art factory in Kirkwall, Orkney, from where every piece of Ortak jewellery is despatched worldwide.
“2007 was a very challenging year for the UK market” says Mark Riddle, Sales and Marketing Director. “Silver enamelled jewellery was a major success for the company, with vibrant colours such as berry red and bright blues and greens especially strong. The emphasis on silver continues over gold and other more expensive metals, with a consequent need to sell more to realise the same turnover. High Street rents, rates and utility costs are in many cases increasing faster than sales revenues and retailers need to work with suppliers that can keep pace with the ever changing needs and demands of the market. With more and more outlets selling jewellery and the seemingly unstoppable growth in 24/7 internet shopping, TV shopping channels, consumers have more choice than ever. Ortak will continue to be fashion focussed and marketing led, ensuring that our product offer and support package for stockists is second to none”.
Ortak are launching 8 new collections at Scotland’s Trade Fair in January and NEC Spring Fair in February. To demonstrate just how stunning the new ranges can look, the company have teamed up with the reigning Miss United Kingdom, Nieve Jennings.
Nieve is pictured wearing “Nectar” from the new Ortak Spring Summer collection. Highly polished silver with pink tourmaline cabochons, Nectar is taken from the company’s Natural Labyrinth theme, inspired by tropical plants, flowers and sunsets from distant, equatorial lands. Infused with earth images and plant-themed patterns this collection evokes an exotic charm from a primitive, uncontaminated world.
Also in highly polished silver, “Maya” is a bold and modern view of the primitive. Taken from the theme Territories, this range is inspired by ethnic art, resulting in a deep, strong, rich and exotic look with a timeless elegance. Maya has a very contemporary feel yet manages to conjure the feeling of tribal history and culture.
In addition to the new jewellery ranges, Ortak will also be showing re-styled “Walkaround” and “Forward Facing” display towers. These purpose-designed units are available free on loan with a qualifying order. Offering security, point of sale card holders and excellent lighting, a storage drawer with dividers enables stock to be clearly identified by staff when serving customers.
All Ortak products are supplied in high quality wooden boxes with black piano lacquer finish.
The latest collections from Ortak are a must see for spring summer 2008.
John Moore wins the 2008 Kayman Award
The designer jeweller John Moore has won the 2008 Kayman Award for his designs in mixed metals.
Moore, who graduated from Manchester Metropolitan University in 2002, says his VANE collection - in brightly coloured aluminium and sterling silver - was inspired by repetition, rhythm and the relationship between individual pieces and the greater mass. He also sites Venetian blinds and the way in which macaws’ feathers are coloured vivid blue on one side and bright yellow on the other (as are the anodised aluminium discs in his winning design) as influences on his work.
The many discs he uses are strung onto silicon rubber cord and separated by silicon tube. While Moore uses the industrial techniques of stamping and water-jet and laser cutting to create his component parts, the jewellery is finished and assembled by hand.
It is a collection of surprises. The cuff, thanks to its inner silicon band, does not need a catch and expands to roll straight over the wrist. It is also reversible and can be worn to expose either the straight edges or the curved edges of the aluminium ‘slats’ to give two distinctive looks. The necklace too is easy to wear as the silver clasp is magnetic and needs no fastening, simply snapping shut.
The judging panel which included jewellery journalists, retailers and designers were unanimous in their praise for Moore. “These pieces provide an innovative and interesting use of mixed metals and are at the cutting-edge of jewellery design and production. The result is strong, flexible, vivid and eye-catching designs that are also hugely wearable,” they commented.
Moore is not the first member of his family to win the Kayman Award; his mother, the Leamington designer/retailer Jane Moore scooped the laurels in the 2005 for her distinctive engraved designs in sterling silver.
Speaking about his success, Moore said that he very much welcomes the changes to the hallmarking act and feels that its introduction will help consumers to appreciate jewellery for its intrinsic design qualities rather than simply its precious metal content. “The silver content of VANE is very much its focal point and provides a perfect, precious foil for the vivid colours of the aluminium. This jewellery, because of the weight of the metal, to say nothing of the cost, simply could not be made totally in gold or silver.”
John Moore wins a free stand in the Retail Jeweller Designer Collection area of Spring Fair Birmingham 2009. His work together with that of the three runners-up will be exhibited on the BJA stand at Spring Fair Birmingham 2008 (Hall 17 Stand C37) where the formal prize-giving will take place at 12.30am on Tuesday 5th February, 2008.
The runners-up
There are three other prize winners in this year’s event. Second place goes to designer Julie Spurgeon for her innovative, STIPA collection in 9ct gold and sterling silver. This five piece suite was praised by the judges for its attention to detail and highly wearable design.
Third place is taken by Neil Rayment for his men’s jewellery range entitled ‘True Man’ which makes innovative use of palladium and coloured gold to create a sophisticated range designed to match modern man’s spending ability and taste.
‘Five Carnival Cuffs’ from the Harlequin Colleciton by Atelier Gilmar of Monmouthshire are highly commended and were praised by the judges for offering silver and gold designs of real sophistication and shelf-appeal.
Speaking about this year’s winners, Anna Bladen, senior marketing manager for Kayman sponsor Spring Fair Birmingham said: “We were once again delighted with the extremely strong response to the Kayman Award. Our stunning Designer Collections section, which is now backed by Retail Jeweller magazine, bears testament to Spring Fair’s total commitment to the furtherance of great jewellery design. We look forward to seeing these and many more exciting new designs in the Jewellery Halls at this year’s show.”
Lindsey Straughton of the BJA is also enthusiastic. “The changes to the Hallmarking Act, as these very different prize-winning collections demonstrate, have opened up a raft of new design possibilities to manufacturing jewellers and designers and I feel sure we will see many more exciting designs in mixed metals as the industry at large takes up the challenges it provides.”
Last year’s Kayman Award winner, the highly acclaimed ‘Fei Liu’ will be taking up his free stand in Hall 17 Stand A16 at this year’s Spring Fair where he will be showing new additions to his prize winning ‘Dawn’ collection in 18ct gold, pearls and coloured stones.
Rashbel
The One Stop Shop
Rashbel offers jewellery manufacturers, designers and students huge variety with a highly professional and personal service.
Rashbel’s unique open plan layout enables jewellers to walk freely from the findings and the bullion section into our equipment and semi precious stones area, where they will find everything that they may require.
Rashbel’s aim is to provide jewellers with all they need to make the jewellery that their customers will love.
We stock a large variety of silver and gold findings including a big selection of ethnic beads and toggles designed specially for us. These include bullion, wires, sheets and tubes, semi precious stones and beads, many of which are special cuts and one off pieces, a wide variety of tools and a unique range of silver gallery strips and stampings. We stock one of the largest selection of silver chains that will fit any taste and style.
At Rashbel, we pride ourselves on our ability to provide each customer with a personal advisor. As most of our sales people are experienced in the art of jewellery making and designing, they will be happy to provide the jeweller with any technical information they may require.
Our website, catalogue and mail order services provide a quick and easy alternative way to enjoy the Rashbel experience.
Our website is constantly being updated with new lines and products on a daily bases, which helps jewellers to be up to date with our products.
In the last year we have introduced over 35 new tool lines to our already extensive, range and offer expert help and advice to ensure you have the right tool or machine when you need it.
We have access to a huge range of hand tools and machinery from all over the world.
In 2008 Rashbel will launch their first full and complete tools catalogue.
Our findings and chains range is one of the largest in the UK and constantly expanding.
In the last six months we have extended our range of gold-filled findings and chains and introduced a new titanium range of chains, especially appealing to our men’s range of jewellery.
We keep ourselves up to date with the latest trends and fashion by visiting the important jewellery trade shows in the world.
Rashbel’s policy is to help our customers to find all they need and if we do not stock the item we will do our best to find it for them.
At IJL 2007 Rashbel launched their new gold-filled findings & special chains range. Now you will able to find the Rolled Gold in the recent Italian Luxury Jewellery Look. Rashbel will re-launch this collection at the NEC with some new additions.
At IJL 2007 Rashbel gave their employees spaces on Rashbel’s stand to show their work and due to the good responses Rashbel employees will present their work, again, at the NEC on Rashbel stand, HALL 17 J25.
This year Rashbel sponsored two employees in the Collection show taking place at Earls court as part of Top Drawer in mid January.
Rashbel is also sponsoring the Small workers special awards at the Craftsmanship & Design awards 2008.
After a successful show at IJL in Earls Court in September 2007 and the NEC 2007 Rashbel, a family run business, is fast becoming an important part of the UK jewellery trade and a true one stop shop for all the requirements of the professional jeweller and student alike.
RASHBEL UK
WWW.RASHBEL.COM
TEL 02078315646
FAX 02078315647
ORDER@RASHBEL.COM
@ NEC HALL 17 J25
Anchorcert & SafeGuard Launch new services at the Spring Fair 2008
Hall 17 Stand B40
SAFEGUARD INDEPENDENT JEWELLERY VALUATION SERVICE LAUNCHES NEW JEWELLERY ASSESSMENT REPORT
SafeGuard Independent Jewellery Valuation Service is launching a new “Jewellery Assessment Report” in response to requests from many manufacturers, importers and retailers.
They are looking for an independent assessment of multi stone diamond, or diamond and coloured stone rings, to verify the quality, give the consumer confidence and help to secure the sale.
The new report, which will be previewed at Spring Fair in February, will include an overall assessment of the quality of the stones and a description of the item, the precious metal and its hallmarks.
SafeGuard Director, Carla Goodfellow said: “We already have customers using this service but we feel that the existing Jewellery Valuation Document format is not appropriate and have redesigned the report to meet our customers requirements. This new Jewellery Assessment will certainly help them to secure sales”. The SafeGuard Jewellery Assessment offers an expert opinion on the overall quality of the article, offering helpful information and sufficient reassurance to retailers and the consumer at a cost of only £25 trade.
BE MY VALENTINE
ANCHORCERT INDEPENDENT DIAMOND CERTIFICATION SERVICE
Valentine’s Day is on the way again and AnchorCert is ready to add that extra hint of romance. An AnchorCert certificated diamond carries that extra bit of authority and reassurance and shows it’s the real thing. And, for a really unique gift, what about a diamond with a secret romantic inscription on the girdle? Messages of up to 18 characters can be applied to any diamond, loose or mounted as long as the girdle is accessible. AnchorCert is holding the current Trade Price of only £15.00 until February 8th for its laser inscription service which is unique in the UK.
Turnaround time for both services (certification and/or inscription) is 5 days, so any articles received before 6th February will be back in time for the big day.
For more information please call:Anchorcert on Tel: 0121 262 1010 or email gem@theassayoffice.co.uk. Retail leaflets to explain the laser inscription service to potential customers are available and include an easy to complete inscription order form.
FLUORESCENCE AND CUT GRADE NOW AVAILABLE
ON ANCHORCERT MINI REPORT
A GREAT YEAR FOR ANCHORCERT INDEPENDENT DIAMOND
AND GEMSTONE CERTIFICATION SERVICE
AnchorCert Diamond and Gemstone Certification services are still only six years old but the business is growing from strength to strength and, underpinned by The Birmingham Assay Office, the brand is now firmly established.
The development of the AnchorCert independent diamond certification service relies upon anticipating, understanding and responding to customer demand and being innovative. The objective is to offer services which will add value to gemset jewellery products in a rapidly changing market and provide helpful information for both sales staff and their customers.
In January 2008 AnchorCert will introduce the latest innovation - Fluorescence and Cut Grade. Both can be added to the AnchorCert Mini report as optional extras.
Customers can opt to include Cut Grade for any loose, round brilliant diamond and Fluorescence for any loose or mounted diamond at an additional cost of only £3.00 each. This extra detail will provide a much more informative diamond report.
Horse-whispering seems an unlikely door-opener to a glittering future in the world of fine jewellery. The jewellery industry has changed in more ways than one, as Franklin Adler tells Claire Adler.
The story of Adler jewellery is one of eclectic and exotic cultural and artistic influences. It involves a journey spanning from Turkey to the Austro-Hungarian Empire to 21st century Switzerland. It is a story of loyalty and of tension between ambitious personalities in a four-generation family business.
What sets Adler jewellery apart from the host of jewellers on Bond Street, is its East meets West flavour. This comes through in the jewellery design and is a reflection of the company’s history.
Arriving at Adler’s London boutique, there is a distinctly Eastern vibe. Tapestry carpets rest against wooden floors and antique accessories like glass bottles and Middle Eastern art, sculptures and masks adorn the interiors and window displays.
The founder, Franklin Adler, climbs to the top floor of the narrow Bond Street store, and recalls how it all began.
“My great grandfather, Jacques, moved from Austro-Hungary to Istanbul in the 1870s. He was a horse-whisperer. He wasn’t a trained vet but he had a skill with horses. Word got out the Sultan’s horse was ill and he soon secured a job as the chief of the Sultan’s stables,” says Franklin.
It is hard to imagine the relevance of this anecdote to the story of the formation of a jewellery business, now into its fourth generation – Franklin’s brother is an equal partner, his wife Leyla is the business’s creative brain and his Harvard-educated son Allen is the CEO.
But it took another generation before Franklin’s great grandfather’s contacts in Istanbul’s royal circles would be put to good use. Jacques sent his son, Edouard, to learn the jewellery trade in Vienna.
“In those days, the academic route wasn’t the most prestigious option. Jewellery was a highly respected trade. My great grandfather paid a master jeweller to give my grandfather a seven year apprenticeship,” says Franklin.
When Edouard returned from Vienna to Istanbul, Jacques leveraged his royal connections to help his son establish himself as court jeweller. Edouard Adler opened his first small shop near the embassies in Istanbul and soon counted ambassadors and rich families amongst his customers.
“People loved the combination of Western techniques with the feminine and sensuous style of the East with its curves - much less geometrical in style than typical Western design,” says Franklin.
“My grandfather, Edouard, was the leader of the family and G-D impersonate in his shop, a very impatient man. My own father who later joined the business had no access to the safe till he was 39 and he had no say at all in how things were run. It was only after my grandfather died that my father began to change things. But in the meantime, I was my grandfather’s first grandchild and his favourite. He enticed me to the shop after school with promises of chocolate cake and allowed me to play with the gems and old, broken pocket watches which I would break and put together again,” remembers Franklin, who was easily won over by the beauty of the rare stones.
“Being in a family business means that we can make quick decisions, be it about opening a franchise or store design. But back in those days, my grandfather was like a Prussian general. No-one could contradict him – except for me,” smiles Franklin.
Edouard might have been an eccentric man, but he was generous all the same. He employed several women who had fled Russia during the Communist revolution to string pearls in his shop without making profit from their work. “One day, a lady complained about the high price he was charging for pearl-stringing,” says Franklin. “He said nothing, cut up the woman’s pearl necklace and gave it straight back to her.”
Aged 19, with a bright academic future in sight after finishing school two years early, Franklin headed to Brighton to begin his higher education. But when his grandfather died, his father summoned him back to Istanbul to help run the business. Franklin accepted his responsibilities fully and has been working in the business full time since 1959.
In 1972, the Adler’s moved to Geneva where they are still based. Today, there are Adler stores in Geneva, London and Hong Kong and franchises in Moscow, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Turkey, Tokyo and open six months a year, Gstaad. New franchises are in the planning in Kuala Lumpar and Singapore and “the USA one day” according to Franklin. The company has 26 staff in Geneva, four full time designers in London and three in Hong Kong. In the 1960s, Adler opened up a factory in Hong Kong for the pieces produced in high volume and 100 staff are employed there.
Since he entered the trade, Franklin says the jewellery business has changed immensely. “There used to be trade secrets, but the internet means everything is in the open. Customers are far more informed than they were 10 years ago and they know what they want.”
Unsurprisingly, Franklin finds he has growing numbers of women coming into the Adler stores on their own. Women are increasingly treating themselves. But even if they don’t always pay for the jewellery, men try to find out what women will like and then they pay. They might send their wife into the store to have a look and then the couple return together,” says Franklin.
“Jewellery used to be put in a safe and worn a few times a year – at the Red Cross Ball, a charity dinner and a wedding. Today jewellery is an accessory people wear more easily and there’s far more emphasis on wearable, everyday jewels. While men think of value, women are driven by emotion when they purchase jewellery. I think men still need to develop their feminine side,” he says.
Marianne Forrest makes timepieces that offer time as an idea as well as an artwork and a useful artefact. She is known for her ability to transcend the usual restrictions of scale by creating objects of all sizes and made from materials as diverse as concrete and glass through to wood, metal and plastics. This diversity has long been a mainstay of Marianne’s portfolio. It has enabled her to achieve more ambitious projects than many of her predecessors as it has allowed her to make things big and small, precious and non-precious.
As a challenge to her own way of working her newest work expands her portfolio of materials to an almost limitless capacity. She can now work with just about anything as long as it stays still long enough to receive a thick coat of metal. Working with Richard Fox, Marianne is exploring the parameters of possibility with encapsulation as the main form of research.
Marianne’s ‘Epiphany’ series is well known as a central theme through work that can be both architectural and personal. As a continuation of the ‘Epiphanies’ she has recently stretched the idea to encompass virtually limitless variety of materials enabling her to explore texture, form, colour and finish in an entirely new way.
Funded by London Metropolitan University the work explores the nature of metalwork and it’s inherent qualities to create ‘impossible’ forms and textures unlike any other in metal. The work recently won an award for exceptional creativity at the BFFIN conference held earlier this year.
Manifesting themselves as timepieces and constructions with time as the thematic focus the works are still in formation and are highlighted through exhibitions such as Element in Cardiff’s Craft in the Bay and the Alexander Gallery in Brighton. A major show is planned at the Grace Barrand Design Centre during July and August of this year. The success of these exhibitions depends on the mysterious nature of the making process and the unrecognisable surfaces generated by meticulous manipulation of materials and encapsulation in metal. Perhaps the most exciting of these is the variety of surfaces and constructions that can be achieved with soft, furry beginnings. These are transformed into shield-like shapes worthy of an Orc in Lord of the Rings or frozen forms, simultaneously woolly and yet hard.
Taking surface as the starting point the work is developing into a growing body of assembled pieces using fine surface textures and subtle differences of manipulation as the lead from which to build new shapes and explore new forms. Subtle surfaces of layered sellotape are shown side by side with constructions of sticks and fluff, all in copper, some with a layer of silver for colour, some verdigris or oxide black.
As with all her work these pieces look both forward and back, referencing ancient relics alongside contemporary forms with instants of time extracted and manipulated, capturing milliseconds in an object destined to outlast her own lifetime and ours. These are the relics of the future, the antiques and collected heirlooms left and handed down for posterity. These are the marks left behind by the graffiti artists, transient yet permanent, solid yet ephemeral. Marianne’s work marks a point in time, this point in time perhaps.
Her latest work dissects the normality of everyday life while enshrining times past and time yet to be. A truly vast look at a very small space or a moment extracted from the infinite.
In this entire flurry of excitement where is the project to go? It has all the hallmarks of a standalone body of work destined to march the gallery circuit with no real application to life outside. Marianne has other ideas however, she intends to bring the process into the public domain with a series of workshops for schoolchildren and Art clubs with the aim of creating a whole new way of making works of art for public spaces.
‘It is not about just making things but about how we approach the making process and what creativity and art can mean in the context of living a life, to ordinary people. I believe that everyone can be proud of their artistic achievement creating major works for their own environment built to last and outlast their lifetimes.’
All the work in this series displays the fundamental principle of artistic creativity, order from chaos and beauty from the mundane, everyday life transformed to elevate the spirit. So where does that leave Marianne? Is she an artist or an artisan, creator or facilitator? She is all of these and more besides. It is her wish that she eschews categorisation, slipping past the handy labels that surround makers. She is not a jeweller or a silversmith or a sculptor or a designer. She is simply a creator doing what comes naturally.
J-dex magazine 
