Welcome to the June 2007 issue of J-Dex online monthly magazine.
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Every couple of years I visit Basel Fair in Switzerland, which was on between 12th April – 19th. I stayed just over the border in France at a delightful hotel called Jenny’s in Hagenthal Le Bas. When the fair is busy people stay as far away as Lucerne, a couple of hours away, Basel not having anywhere near enough hotel rooms to accommodate this huge fair. The fair is lovely to visit at this time of year with the central piazza being well used for a quick coffee, meal and meetings in the warm sunshine during and after a long day.
This year along with about 100,000 other folk I enjoyed a dazzling display of watches, gems and jewellery. The fair is one of the most prestigious of the jewellery calendar in particular showcasing the Swiss watch industry.
The watch hall is truly stunning with million pound display ‘houses’, I can’t think of another word for them. The Rolex and Chopard houses have multi-floor edifices guarded by statuesque blondes who check your invitation to get in.
If you haven’t got a pre-set appointment forget it.
It really reflects the British world position that we do not have a dedicated country presence at Basel and that only 16 out of the over 2000 exhibitors were from the UK. Despite that everyone I spoke to from Britain, M.Vainer, Stephen Webster, Shaun Leane, Deakin & Francis and International Bullion Brokers (IBB) had a good fair. Barrie Dobson of IBB told me, “You can’t tell until after the show. The days of big orders are gone – if you get good contacts, then it’s been good. IBB are doing well with men’s jewellery, higher end jewellery and silver. And everything is brand orientated.”
Most companies I spoke to said the fair didn’t have the volume of buyers for them of previous years, despite the higher visitor numbers. Without good numbers and orders it can be hard to justify the great expense of exhibiting at Basel.
I was shocked at the high number robberies at the fair with a large diamond goods theft even before the fair opened through to a courier company getting a signature from the wrong person, who disappeared, reping cases going missing and diamonds being swapped for cubics. I think most companies need to review their security arrangements.
Claire Adler visited Basel too. “While Paris Hilton’s arrival and subsequent faux pas in Basel might have proved to be the most hilarious moment of the entire fair, we had to knuckle down and remember we were there to survey the jewellery.”
she writes.
The fact that celebrities abound at Basel is nothing new. This year’s attendees included tennis ace Roger Federer for Rolex, model Eva Herzigova for Chopard and Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova for Calvin Klein.
But socialite and tabloid figure Paris Hilton made an unforgettable entrance. You could call it a case of wrong time, wrong place. Having touched down in Basel, she ironically appeared an hour late at the press conference to launch her latest venture with timekeeping partner Parlux, announcing she was thrilled to be here because she had never been to Zurich before. Either way, given her cult following amongst devotees of fashion the world over, her watch sales, at $200 a pop, are unlikely to be affected.
In other less blasé and more jewellery oriented news, several trends emerged:
Firstly, cuffs are all important this season. Not a bad thing when you consider all those three quarter length sleeved tunic tops and jackets around at the moment. For a playful height of summer chic, cuffs can be pushed right above the elbow. Look out for interesting textures such as hand-hammering, carved work or fabric-like details. Cut out designs and filigree make for lighter pieces and in some cases keep the price lower.
Meanwhile, fine jewellers seem to be falling over each other to create attention-grabbing pieces in an attempt to fuel profits. When asked, many high end brands and designers admit their key growth area is at top price points. The market for luxury is on a high and big brands are cashing in on the demand for limited editions and one-off extravagances. First time Basel exhibitor, Australian South Sea pearl brand, Autore exhibited 13 showstoppers incorporating pearls from their CEO’s private collection. Chopard previewed a collection of 60 unique pieces dedicated to the Red Carpet, to mark 60 years of the Cannes Film Festival and 10 years of joint collaboration. And Shaun Leane documented his bespoke credentials via statement pieces in his new Captured collection and a film charting his longstanding work with Alexander McQueen and 21 years in the industry.
Turkey is in a period of significant growth and, according to some, coming forward as one of the world’s leading jewellery exporters. According to the Turkish Jewellery Export Association, export value has soared from over 10 million Swiss francs in 1995 to over 1 billion Swiss francs in 2005. Principle destinations are the USA, the UAE, Italy, Russia, Germany, Israel and Libya. Most jewellers are centred in and around Istanbul.
Finally, when it comes to coloured gemstones, red and green tourmalines are currently highly sought after, according to a report in the BaselWorld Daily News. The same article claimed the rare paraiba tourmaline has dropped to second spot in terms of popularity and blue moonstones are the number one hot property. Meanwhile, demand for amethyst has been catching up on aquamarine as the latter becomes scarcer.
With or without the added entertainment value of ill-advised A-listers, BaselWorld is always a thoroughly buzzing experience. Here’s to next year.”
In conversation with a client today we were musing the ingress of paperwork into our businesses.
She with enough years jewellery trade experience to put many to shame (modesty prevents me from revealing the number itself) and I with access to 100 years collective here at G F Williams.
What has happened to the customer who relied and trusted their retailer for good advice and value supply WE RANTED....
As I mentioned in an earlier edition, the end user got net wise and we all went out of business.
Not so.
Perhaps the issue is the passing of goods through numerous different hands and the changing of the description as they progress through the chain.
The TV vendors use enormous creative licence when flowering up one of their items and it seems that we are now expected to be experts about everything. Part of the issue may well be the supplier not being sure of what he is selling.
‘Therefore it is vital that when trading in any item the paperwork associated with it must take absolute priority. Do not ever sell anything you have any knowledge of whatsoever.’
Oh, and be sure to leave the jewellery sales to those that do....
Jason
Jerwood Applied Arts Prize shortlisted designer/makers compete for Jewel in the Crown
Six jewellers are competing for the UK’s most prestigious prize in the applied arts, the Jerwood Applied Arts Prize. The £30,000 prize, established in 1995 by the Crafts Council and the Jerwood Charitable Foundation, is a celebration of innovation, commitment and excellence within the applied arts. The independent judging panel was impressed by the outstanding standard of all the shortlisted work which blends intellectual content and excellence in design and making.
The shortlisted artists are: Susan Cross, Nora Fok, Yoko Izawa, Grainne Morton, Adam Paxon and Mah Rana. An exhibition of work by the shortlist will be hosted at the Jerwood Space, London from 6 June to 22 July 2007. The exhibition will then tour to museums and galleries throughout the UK.
Selected from 87 entries, the six shortlisted jewellers use a range of materials in their work, including gold and oxidised silver, acrylic, lycra and natural materials such as twig and hair. The Jerwood Applied Arts Prize will be awarded on 25 June 2007 to the maker who, in the opinion of an independent panel of judges, has made the most significant contribution to Jewellery over the last six years.
The shortlisting in October sparked lively debate among the panel of judges around the question, ‘What is jewellery?’ and questions of wearability and function were visited. Following the shortlisting, the judges commented, ‘The judging process raised very interesting questions about the balance between practicality and personal expression, the traditional and the contemporary. The shortlist represents a very strong, and diverse, selection of work.’
The panel, respected for their work and knowledge in the field of Applied Arts, consists of Jacqueline Mina, winner of the previous Jerwood Applied Arts Prize: Jewellery in 2000; Christine Rew, Keeper of Applied Arts, Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museum; Paul Derrez, maker, collector, and Director, Gallerie RA, Amsterdam; Carol Woolton, Jewellery Editor of Vogue and Geoffrey Munn, curator and writer.
Is this a record?
John Watson of PJ Watson Ltd has recently qualified as a gemmologist having passed his FGA exam. He is the fourth generation of the Watson family to acquire this coveted award. His father, Vivian Watson became an FGA in 1969. His grandfather Peter J Watson qualified in 1953 and his great grandmother, Constance Watson, who was a student of the renowned Robert Webster, became an FGA in 1945.
A commitment to true professional standards has always been one of the foundation stones of PJ Watson Ltd and is now a contributor to their success over four generations. In a constantly changing and fast moving market place that commitment to traditional values gives customers extra confidence and complete assurance in their supplier.
Vivian Watson picked up an award last year from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain in recognition of fifteen years of service to the organisation as a director and member of the Council of Management. During this time he served as Chairman of the organisation.
info@pjwatson.co.uk
Palladium Jewellery - Legislate and Educate
By Neill Swan of Johnson Matthey
Mr Nootenboom makes some interesting points in his article “Palladium - A Word of Warning” in the May edition of J-Dex, but there are a couple of areas which I believe may need further elaboration for your readers.
Palladium has been higher in price than platinum, but this was six years ago, not three. Since then Russian supply/export has been liberalised and the car companies have been thrifting the amount of metal on catalytic converters such that supply now out strips demand by millions of oz each year. Possibly the only reason for another significant price hike in palladium would be a considerable increase in speculative investment.
The Chinese market for palladium jewellery is indeed the largest in the world, but it is a relatively new development and retail sales are currently limited to smaller cities where consumers are less wealthy. Mostly unable to afford platinum, consumers in these “tertiary” cities prefer palladium to white gold because of the higher purity rather than the price. China is, however, also the largest consumer of platinum jewellery in the world as consumers in the metros and first tier cities prefer it and can afford it.
In the USA reports are that retailers are having success with palladium jewellery as an alternative to white gold. They claim not to be selling it as a cheap platinum, however, but as an alternative to white gold that stays white - pricing is close to 14k white. Where it is having the greatest success is men’s wedding rings. The lower cost is enabling the woman to get what she wants - a diamond set platinum wedding ring. With platinum’s price increase in recent years the fall-back position for couples on a tight budget had been to white gold for both rings. This had caused problems when her engagement ring was platinum. As the rhodium wore off the white gold wedding ring the colour difference showed up. Palladium, they say, is making their life easier and helping to maintain sales the total value of the sale rather than reduce it as it did with white gold.
I agree with him that there is a very real danger that palladium could cannibalise platinum sales but believe the way to prevent this is not to ignore it and hope it will go away. It won’t! We need to set legal purity levels, to prevent the greater threat of low purity palladium jewellery entering the market, and educate jewellers on how to sell palladium sensibly - not as a cheap alternative to platinum but as another white precious jewellery metal, albeit with different properties and benefits to the others. This will add value to the market rather than simply replace it. It is a reassuring sign that designers in the USA and in the UK are now looking at palladium’s properties and using them to design pieces that would have been difficult in other metals.
The information on the PGM database shows the hardness of both pure palladium and platinum as being around 40HV. It is the addition of other alloying elements that increase hardness to practical jewellery materials and these can vary greatly. Some of the alloys being used in the USA achieve as-cast figures as high as 170 HV.
His comments on cracking are pertinent however and Johnson Matthey is just about to publish a palladium jewellery technical manual in the USA, which will help jewellers to avoid these problems. This will be anglicised for a UK audience and hopefully will be available later this year.
e-mail: Neill.Swan@matthey.com Tel: +44 1763 25631
GFMS: Outlook positive for platinum, palladium
The future looks bright for platinum and palladium, according to the annual Platinum and Palladium Survey published by precious-metal consulting firm GFMS in April.
The firm sees platinum prices as having solid footing given limited aboveground stocks of the metal and the increasingly elastic nature of its demand. In addition, platinum will remain in modest surplus due to further growth in mine production and another year of contraction for platinum jewellery, according to the report.
Despite the surplus, GFMS believes investor sentiment will remain supportive due to longer-term, background factors such as dollar weakness, inflation concerns and geopolitical anxiety. The company expects platinum to reach a high of at least $1,450 per ounce this year.
The firm expects demand for palladium to increase in jewellery and in autocatalysts to the extent that they could outweigh the gains from slightly higher mine production. The company expects, however, that investor interest will propel the metal to a $420 per ounce high in 2007.
The Platinum and Palladium Survey represents the fourth major report on these markets by GFMS, which also produces an annual Gold Survey and World Silver Survey.
Moissanite competition shortlist soon to be revealed
Charles and Colvard’s first competition, announced at the Spring Fair, attracted an impressive number of entries in the Professional Category. The challenge was to design a collection of jewellery for the self-purchasing woman and the initial brief reflected this. The winner will be announced at IJL, in September.
An announcement is imminent of the five shortlisted competitors who have been selected to go through to the final round of judging in July. Each designer has submitted three pieces based around a theme that they believe will resonate with consumers.
The judging panel were chosen for their experience in the jewellery field and knowledge of the industry.
First round judges were Marie Dill, Mary Brittain, Gay Penfold, and Jan Springer with retailer, Ruth Amoore, of Chester. For both rounds the judging is ‘blind’, with numbered anonymous entries submitted to the judges so as to ensure a totally impartial result.
The winner of this category will enjoy a trip to Las Vegas staying at one of the city’s luxury hotels, and be the guest of Charles & Colvard, makers of Moissanite, at JCK Las Vegas, the industry’s most glamorous trade event.
For the Student Category a very worthwhile £500 prize will be awarded at IJL with the best entries on show. Dennis Allen, for Charles and Colvard, said ‘We were pleased with the level of entries and also impressed with the interest shown by students at the Jewellery School following a presentation on Marketing and Moissanite’.
Gecko Welcomes New Sales Managers
Gecko Jewellery is pleased to announce the appointment of two new area sales managers, Tracey Shore and Rose Cosgrove. Tracey, previously of Hot Diamonds, is a new addition to the sales team and will be covering the South West of England. Rose’s recent relocation to Northern Ireland represents Gecko’s expansion into new territory, as she will be covering both Northern and the Republic of Ireland. Whilst she is missed by the team in London, she is relishing the opportunity to be out on the road, displaying all the new ranges from Gecko.
The NEW CooksonGold.com is Launched
Cookson, Europe’s foremost supplier of precious metals and components to the jewellery trade, has launched a new version of its website.
With 24/7 access to over 10,000 lines, www.cooksongold.com has the largest range in the trade - everything from gold, silver, platinum & palladium sheet, wire & tube. Plus findings, gemstones, chain, wedding ring blanks, settings, rings, as well as all the tools needed to turn your great idea into a beautiful finished piece.
The new site is easier to use, with selectable search options, the ability to see the last ten items visited, simpler ordering and much more.
To celebrate the launch of the new web site Cookson are offering the chance to win a complete workshop, including the bench - worth over £600! Simply log on to www.cooksongold.com to enter.
Plus for all readers of J-Dex an additional special offer, place your next your on-line and claim free delivery – simpy enter voucher code FP5001 when placing your next order.
Among the improvements are:
Improved navigation – tailored to what you are looking for.
More ways to search – by description, code or a-z index
No minimum order on-line
Web exclusive offers
Downloadable user guides
Track your orders
View order history
Improved help & technical sections
Metal & scrap prices updated twice a day
Silversmith keeps on shining
Rebecca Joselyn, won ‘Best Newcomer’ at the British Craft Trade Fair in Harrogate 15th - 17th April. Rebecca graduated from Sheffield Hallam University in June 2006 and is beginning to making a name for herself. Last February she won the prestigious Gold Award at Craftsmanship and Design exhibition at Goldsmiths Hall, London.
Rebecca was overjoyed when it was announced that she won ‘Best Newcomer 2007’, a Craftsman Magazine sponsored award, which recognises ‘quality of design, craftsmanship and business skills’.
“These awards mean so much for anyone who is trying to start up in business,” says Joselyn. “For me personally it means that I’m beginning to be recognised by the business sector in which I have to build my profile and make my living.”
Rebecca is based at the purpose built studio complex ‘Persistence Works’ on Brown Street where she gained a place on the celebrated ‘Starter Studio Programme for Silversmiths’.
The Starter Studio Programme is a two year business start up programme, housed at Persistence Works, and offers
mentoring and business support, access to a fully equipped space and exhibition and commission opportunities. The Programme receives support from Sheffield Assay Office, Sheffield Town Trust and the Learning & Skills Council.
Man spent millions in stolen cash on Jewellery Television
A Brooklyn man is accused of stealing more than $3.6 million from the New York City Comptroller’s office and spending it on purchases from Jewelry Television.
The Manhattan District Attorney’s office alleges that Tracy Ball, 49, made 604 electronic-fund transfers from a JPMorgan Chase bank account maintained by the New York City Comptroller to Jewelry Television.
For more than a year, Ball used city funds to buy diamond earrings, bracelets, necklaces and watches, and to pay for his car insurance and Verizon cell phone bills, the D.A.’s office claims.
On March 11, within a span of about 12 hours, Ball ordered 10 pairs of a single type of diamond earrings, 15 of a single type of diamond necklace and 15 of a single type of gold necklace. The following day, he ordered 20 of a single type of diamond bracelet, according to the D.A.’s office.
Authorities have recovered more than 100 pieces of jewellery.
The New York City Comptroller referred the case to the Manhattan District Attorney’s office on March 27, after Jewelry Television noticed the unusual pattern of orders by Ball.
Ball is awaiting arraignment on a charge of grand larceny in the first degree, which could carry a sentence of up to 25 years in prison.
Dichrolicious
Dichrolicious Ltd. would like to announce that they have become the exclusive UK and Ireland distributors for the range they are marketing as White Satin.
“ The White Satin collection is a contemporary Italian sterling silver jewellery range that is ever expanding...due to customer requests “ explains company director Rich Sewell. So what makes this range of jewellery unique? “Luscious rubies, sapphires, amethysts, blue topaz, peridots, citrines and cultured pearls are mixed with folded, 3D textured silver giving the collection its’ own special identity. There is nothing else quite like it on the market! The range looks very expensive but jewellery retailers are pleasantly surprised at the modest prices which begin at £4.” Matching sets of earrings, pendants, necklaces, bangles and rings are available or can be purchased separately. “This range is selling through well and expanding in leaps and bounds! Now that we are the sole UK and Ireland agents for this range, we will be able to provide all potential and existing customers with the personal service they have grown to expect from us” says Rich Sewell.
All items are assayed where required and care cards provided for each piece of White Satin. For more information, contact Dichrolicious Ltd. on 01323 485605.
The National Association of Goldsmiths accept gold pledges from CAFOD
The N.A.G. recently pledged its support for the Catholic Agency for Overseas Development’s (CAFOD) Unearth Justice campaign at the hand-in of almost 45,000 signatures calling for clean gold.
NAG representatives met CAFOD Campaigners at Goldsmiths Hall, London, to receive the gold paper chain.
Chairman of the National Association of Goldsmiths, Mark Adlestone, accepted the petition and spoke of the need for good practice by jewellers.
Mr Adlestone said: “I am pleased to receive theses pledge card on behalf of the NAG as an indication of our support for your campaign against dirty gold.
As retail jewellers we have a responsibility to do what we can to ensure that our business avoids damage to the environment and, more importantly, to communities anywhere in the world.
These are responsibilities we at the NAG take very seriously, both for moral and - let us be honest - commercial reasons.
We are an educational and campaigning organisation and seek to guide our members to do what is right for the industry. We have been instrumental in promoting the Kimberley Process to our members, which has helped reduce the amount of conflict diamonds entering the supply chain. We are actively involved in the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices, which promotes higher ethical standards. And here we are supporting your campaign and through, for example, our magazine, raising awareness of the Golden Rules among our membership.
But while the NAG may campaign, promote excellent causes, urge, cajole, remind and so forth, we must bring our members with us if we are to be effective. And this is where the challenge lies.
Cafod is expert on the issues surrounding dirty gold and cares passionately that the Golden Rules are adopted widely by the trade. We at the NAG also know a good deal about dirty gold - we acknowledge the injustices you’ve unearthed in your report and the validity of your campaign.
But what Cafod and the NAG must do is win our members over so that they see this issue as relevant to them and their businesses.
In the last three weeks we have conducted a poll of our members in which we asked them whether customers raise the issue of ethical sourcing. Only a tiny fraction of the respondents say they do. We asked our members whether they have had any contact with NGOs such as CAFOD who are campaigning on jewellery-related matters. Again, only a 3 or 4 per cent have had any contact.
So we have what is obviously an important issue which - for now anyway - the vast majority of our members might happily ignore.
I say “for now” because consumers are slowly becoming far more interested in what impact their purchases have on the environment and on communities elsewhere in the world. One only has to look at the rise of the fair-trade concept to see that price, for many consumers, is not always the only issue.
What we need to do is listen to people like Jeffrey Sachs, the American economist, who over these next few weeks is giving the Reith series of lectures, which are being broadcast on BBC radio. His theme is learning to live peacefully and sustainably in an extraordinarily crowded world.
This is what he said in the first of the lectures:
“The way of solving problems requires one fundamental change, a big one, and that is learning that the challenges of our generation are not us versus them, they are not us versus Islam, us versus the terrorists, us versus Iran, they are us, all of us together on this planet against a set of shared and increasingly urgent problems.”
Cafod’s challenge - and the NAG’s challenge - is to show that we are all on the same side - retailers - that is our members - their customers, the gold suppliers, the gold miners, and the gold mining communities around the world. When we approach the problem of dirty gold, it mustn’t be them and us, but just us.
I want to end with another quote, this one by John Kennedy. He was talking about world peace, but his comments are equally appropriate to today’s event.
“Our problems are man-made, therefore they can be solved by man, and man can be as big as he wants. No problem of human destiny is beyond human beings. Let us focus on a more practical, more attainable peace, based not on a sudden revolution in human nature but on a gradual evolution in human institutions, on a series of concrete actions and effective agreements which are in the interest of all concerned.”
We in the jewellery industry must work with NGOs like Cafod to find solutions that are in the interests of all.“
CAFOD’s head of Campaigns Helen Wolfson said: “We are very encouraged by the support shown by the National Association of Goldsmiths for the Unearth Justice campaign, and by the active part they are playing by taking the lead role in ensuring that any industry standards they produce meet the baselines set out in the Golden Rules.“ The London hand-in is part of a nationwide Unearth Justice campaign by CAFOD. To date campaigners have handed in golden chain petitions at more than 100 jewellery stores asking companies to endorse the 12 Golden Rules.
The campaign calls on both mining companies and UK jewellers to clean up the industry and with 80 per cent of the gold mined each year ending up in jewellery, CAFOD believes retailers can play an important part in improving standards.
Hannah Bedford – Robbery. Can you help?
I am hoping that J-dex readers will help me regarding the theft of an estimate £10,000 of jewellery stock from my studio. I am in the second year of business as a designer maker. I trained at Birmingham School of Jewellery and went onto spend a year at Bishopsland Educational Trust.
The theft of stock was from my jewellery studio at South Hill Park Arts Centre Bracknell where I am artist in Residence. The crime occurred between 24th and 26th April. I am a small new business and sole trader. This is my entire collection of 2 years work since graduating. I received a phone call (prior to discovering about the theft) from someone who the police now presume is the suspect on the 26th enquiring about the value of my work. They gave a false address and withheld their telephone number.
The work is silver, 18ct and 24ct gold. All work is hallmarked with my makers mark - HB. The work has been previously exhibited at the Victoria and Albert museum and was featured on BBC TV at the beginning of the year.
This has devastated my business and as you can imagine it is very hard to come to terms with. I can be contacted on 07971 897 271 or alternatively at www.hannahbedford.co.uk.
TH March ensuring your customers are kept satisfied and spending
TH March, the jewellery insurance experts, has relaunched March Guard 3 Jewellery Insurance a bespoke yet simple scheme designed to enable retailers to provide instant cover for their customers by the issue of a certificate of insurance underwritten by Lloyd’s.
An extended version of the standard March Guard 1 scheme, March Guard 3 is a simple self-issue insurance certificate scheme unique to TH March that jewellers can offer to customers at the point of sale for a three-year period of insurance. It is available for all jewellery items not exceeding £5,000 on any one item (reduced to £1,500 for watches) and £10,000 for any one customer or household. With March Guard 3, customers can leave the premises with their newly purchased jewellery safe in the knowledge that they are instantly covered against loss, whether by theft or accidental means, or damage. The scheme also guarantees all replacements and repairs will be fulfilled by the shop where the purchase was made, removing the hassle and stress of having to replace items of jewellery for customers, and ensuring that retailers retain their custom in the future.
Neil McFarlane from TH March comments: “As a result of more than 100 years of experience in the jewellery trade, our knowledge and cover is the best in the market place and March Guard 3 demonstrates our commitment to the retail trade. We are continually researching new products in order to provide a complete range of insurance services that enable jewellers and retailers to keep customers spending in their shops.”
March Guard 3 is designed to be simple to operate with minimal paperwork - just one self issue certificate and one simple claim form. Once jewellers or retailers purchase a block of cover, they will be supplied with a book of certificates which can be issued to jewellery customers to provide them with immediate cover on their purchases or revaluations.
As with all TH March products, retailers are guaranteed:
• a first class service including easy access to decision makers to make retailers’ lives easier
• a repair/replacement guarantee
• the referral of all replacement claims to the retailer and a fast and fair claims service
• the provision of easy-to-use manuals and interesting product literature
• a dedicated team of professionals who understand the needs of the trade
TH March has a strong history of providing specialist insurance to the retail, wholesale and manufacturing jewellery trade and was responsible for creating the Jewellers’ Block Policy over a hundred years ago. TH March has been appointed insurers to The National Association of Goldsmith’s of Great Britain & Ireland since 1906 and the British Jewellers Association since 1968.
A variety of other jewellery insurance schemes are also available including the March Plus scheme aimed at higher valued items exceeding the March Guard and March Guard 3 limits.
Hungry for design? – Super stew of fresh talent at the Jewellery school
Whet your appetite with the eagerly awaited annual degree show by graduates completing their BA (Hons) Jewellery and Silversmithing course. Held at the Birmingham Institute of Art and Design’s internationally renowned School of Jewellery from 14th to 19th June 2007, during Birmingham’s New Generation Arts Festival. This year’s collection promises to serve the cream of creative talent fresh on the design scene today.
The recipe for success begins when you add a group of national and international creative’s together into a boiling pot, stir and allow to simmer. Three years on, the rich flavours of ‘self expression’ and ‘design innovation’ begin to bubble. Bursting with a breadth of highly individual styles, subject boundaries are energetically explored. Featured works range from handbag accessories, large scale interior screens, jewellery inspired by sugary treats to sculptural objects exploring scale and space. Original concepts are expressed through the innovative use of materials ranging from marshmallows, magnets to the progressive use of metals.
Selected works will also be exhibited at New Designers 2007, taking place from 5th - 8th July 2007 at the Business Design Centre in Islington, where the careers of thousands of graduates are launched into the future.
For further information about this press release and images please contact
Liam Beckett on t: 07906196250 or Theresa Nguyen on t: 07903192142 or
e: ljbeckett1@yahoo.co.uk or design.nguyen@googlemail.comor for further information please visit www.biad.uce.ac.uk
NEW DESIGNERS 2007 – GETS SET TO LAUNCH THE NEXT GENERATION OF YOUNG DESIGN STARS
In July 2007 at the Business Design Centre, London N1, New Designers presents a myriad of ideas from fashion to furniture, architecture to accessories, graphics to glass, new media to contemporary applied arts. In a vibrant atmosphere, some 4000 graduates launch their careers, attracting the attention of buyers, galleries, commissioning agents and prospective employers. Among the 17,000 visitors, the public and professionals rub shoulders, sharing the thrill of discovery – forecasting trends, spotting potential, meeting the makers - and many is the satisfied visitor who bought early work from future design stars such as Thomas Heatherwick, Ella Doran, and Alexander Taylor,
One Year On showcases 40 selected designers. Just a year into business, they are already making their reputations at the forefront of interior, fashion and product design. New Designers is delighted to announce that design expert, Thorsten van Elten, will be presenting and curating One Year On this year.
A series of talks offering an insight into careers in design, and the many possibilities that working in the creative industries will run during both parts of the event. This year’s highlights include talks from Audi Design Foundation, key makers selected by the Crafts Council, invaluable mentoring advice from the NCGE (National Council for Graduate Enterprise), the Sky creative team and many more.
New Designers 2007
Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 0QH
Part 2 – 12-15 July: Thursday to Saturday 11am-6pm; Sundays 11am-4pm
Awards Preview Evening: 11 July, 6.30pm-9.00pm (invitation only)
Product Design, Furniture Design, Illustration and Animation, Graphic Design & Interactive Media Photography, Spatial Design (Architecture, Interior Design, Theatre Design & Model Making).
Ticket prices on the door:
£12 single day ticket (£9 co
ncessions) £25 unlimited ticket (entitles holder to attend on multiple days in both parts including both Awards Preview Evenings)
Gordon Hamme reviews the ever-changing world of diamonds. He spoke to Elli Lerner of AMC, a Diamond Trading Company Sightholder, Neil Josyfon of L&R Josyfon, a leading Hatton Garden diamond merchant and Richard Vainer of M.Vainer, an international natural coloured diamond merchant.
Elli Lerner of AMC talked to me about the Antwerp based Sightholder. “We are well known for fine make 1 carat + diamonds. Our first diamond-polishing factory is close to our Headquarters in Antwerp, and both our modern production plants in South Africa as well as China are overseen by experienced factory managers sent over from Belgium. The company has sales and service offices in China, Hong Kong, Dubai and South Africa, with the latter also undertaking rough purchasing from the DTC as a Sightholder in its own right,” Elli explained.
Having previously managed a high-end diamond jewellery shop in Hatton Garden for eight years, Elli has a strong understanding of the UK retail trade and has run London office for AMC since it opened three years ago in the area.
At the London office Elli took me through their extensive inventory. “We are here to be closer to the companies we serve. Customers know they can call us and expect 24-hour delivery, or even same-day delivery if it’s required,” says Elli.
AMC stones are cut with a clear focus on the quality of the ‘make’ (or cut) rather than going for maximum weight (carat). He showed me his diamonds list, which categorised the makes as generally either ‘excellent’ or ‘very good’ to emphasis his point. He commented, “It’s getting more and more important for us to supply a certificate with every stone. The consumer wants to be assured of the quality and integrity that underpins the true value of each diamond.”
Elli finished by saying that the success of the company worldwide has come about through their close cooperation with retailers and jewellery manufacturers. “Every client a partner, every sale a partnership. That’s our credo wherever we are active; and I see that the people we work with know and feel that.” He showed me a list of 187 D flawless diamonds in a range of sizes up to a carat, which the UK company carries to support a specific jewellery line produced by a retailer here. “We work hard to build up a shop’s reputation by ensuring they have a consistent supply of our higher quality products in their windows, by offering know-how, and supporting their sales drives in the consumer marketplace.”
L & R Josyfon Ltd
L&R Josyfon is a third generation diamond merchant with over 90 years trading experience. The company has always realised the importance of service and has been growing rapidly in recent years. Neil Josyfon explained to me. “We are competing well against foreign suppliers by offering finely made goods with a same day service from our substantial stockholding.” The company carries a significant stock of stones, many of which are certified and a good selection of difficult to find diamonds which Neil buys as he see them.
Large parcels of well made smaller stones, fancy shapes and baguettes are also held to satisfy customers needs.
I questioned the breadth of demand for larger stones. Neil explained. “We get demand from all over the country. There seems to be a high level of disposable income both from the City, professional people and those who have made money in property.” He did then comment on new competition from the internet in the brilliant cut diamond market but carried on to say that customers for the company’s speciality of well made fancy-cut diamonds are not as price sensitive where the cut and the beauty of the diamonds are the most important aspect.
The niche, which L&R Josyfon has built for itself is in the medium to top quality end of the market especially for well made rounds and fancy shapes. Neil said, “In my recent experience the market for bread and butter, smaller than 1/2 carat, goods is slower”. The company is well known for its good cutting which makes matching of the diamonds so much easier by purchasing these from very few manufacturers to gain consistency.
David Marshall
“I am always on the look out for beautiful diamonds. Although I love a well cut brilliant diamond I am especially interested in the more unusual shapes. The crispness of a well proportioned Ascher, the softer shape of an old mine cut cushion diamond, the sharp geometric lines of French cut diamonds, they all inspire my jewellery.
It is fantastic to find a diamond that is beautifully cut with great colour and fire. A diamond such as this is special and it is the shape and style of the stone that inspires my design. I aim to create jewellery that will emphasise the beauty of the diamond and bring it to life in a piece that will delight the wearer. I often set the mounts with tiny micro set diamonds to highlight the stone and enhance the design.
I am also keen to use the many and varied colours that can be found in diamonds. They give you a whole new palate to play with. The warm golden yellows, oranges and browns look especially stunning when set in yellow gold along with a scattering of sparkling white diamonds. The softer tones of the pinks look warm when set in rose gold and cool and sophisticated when set in platinum.”
David Marshall - Tel: 0207 713 9595
Marco Bicego
Celebrating exhilarating growth and continual innovation
Since the launch of his eponymous jewellery line in 2000, Marco Bicego has redefined the phrase “everyday luxury” with sensuous, extraordinarily beautiful jewellery that blends old world Italian craftsmanship with passion. A gifted artisan from a family of goldsmiths, young Bicego possesses an innate sense of what women desire from fashion.
Through 2004 – 2006, Marco Bicego USA experienced years of amazing growth. This growth is now continuing in all other major markets including the UK where the brand was launched in 2005.
Marco Bicego is available at leading jewellers all around the world but more importantly the brand is available at key prestigious international locations such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdales in the USA, Harrods, Liberty and Harvey Nichols in the UK, as well as leading jewellers in tourist and major cities.
Marketing is a key component to the designer’s success. The new international ad campaign was shot against the backdrop of Sardinia’s exotic Porto Pino beach. Marco Bicego’s campaign, in collaboration with public relations agencies in Milan and New York, is featured in pages of top fashion and lifestyle magazines around the world. Marco Bicego launched its first print campaign in 2000 and continues to utilize strategic marketing to build brand recognition. With a significant percentage of revenues invested in marketing ventures, the company is committed to expressing the creative concept behind the brand.
The goals for the next two years will include the continuation of robust product launches that leverage the seasonality of the fashion world while maintaining the timeless elegance of precious jewellery.
BICEGO UK LTD. P.O. Box 37615 London NW7 2YE - T: 020 8959 5036 - F: 020 8906 4774
www.marcobicego.com
Jacobs Jewellery Design.
Jacobs Jewellery offer hand-made, one-off designs made in Great Britain. “Using some of the finest craftsmen, we can create stunning platinum and 18 carat gold jewellery that is second to none. Deliveries work on a 14 working day turn-around period, guaranteed.”
The company is working very closely with the Platinum Guild this year, and their latest range shown, is backed up with PGI display products, as well as being advertised in all the National glossies including The Times and The Independent Newspapers, You and Your Weddings and Brides Magazines.
To become the recommended retailer in your area or discuss any other requirements call Barry/Stacey on 0207 242 8524.
Alfred Terry offers versatility and choice
Versatility, choice and easy re-ordering are at the heart of the new diamond ring collection from the long-established, prize-winning manufacturer Alfred Terry
Alfred Terry offers a collection specially created to facilitate the sale of core products. The range features classic, single, three, five and seven stone diamond rings and diamond eternity rings. These are available in a variety of different combinations of stone size, colour and metal, yellow or white 18ct gold or in platinum, and in many cases with the same price point.
This range of ‘Contemporary Classics’ is right ‘On the Button’ as the creative look demonstrates -
“All businesses have core products that can be guaranteed to sell. The idea is total flexibility with customers being offered the opportunity to customise the ring design of their choice to their own taste and pocket,” says MD Chris Burrow.
Like all Alfred Terry’s product segments the ‘Contemporary Classics’ collection is accompanied by its own fully illustrated mini brochure and point-of-sale materials.
H W Tankel
Although the Tankel name has been recognised for almost 100 years as one of Britain’s most important diamond companies, they are still attracting many new customers in 2007.
H.W.Tankel (Scotland) Ltd is a family run business specialising in the import of diamonds and the manufacturing of fine jewellery. The company take pride in their reputation and always endeavour to offer superb service and excellent value.
Tankel’s great experience of the UK domestic market means that they know what sells in this part of the world and they know how to manufacture special designs that appeal to the public.
The company now find that there is an increasing demand for 1 carat round diamonds which they stock in several qualities. Particularly strong at present are 1 carat rounds that when set as 18ct Single Stone rings will retail for around £1800 - £2000.
This year many new designs using fancy shape diamonds have been introduced. The Asscher Cut diamond range has been hugely successful again and the company are working on even more stunning additions for the second half of the year.
Tankel note that there is a very high interest in their pave set range at present which is a little bit different and creates a larger look to the jewellery.
By pushing the boundaries in design and style the company have new lines which are very different from what can be seen elsewhere but are very saleable as has been shown by very high volume of repeat orders
Feedback confirms that the ability to offer excellent value is one of the main factors in choosing the company as a supplier. Tankel’s customers prefer dealing with a family run company that continues to provide a personal service and is prepared to really try and help.
They also appreciate that there is an exclusivity about their diamond jewellery as it is not seen in every single retail jeweller in the UK. This really helps when most retailers strive to offer their customers something slightly different from everyone else.
Inhorgenta Europe 2007
Fair Report by Martin Foster
Inhorgenta Europe 2007 – The Biggest Fair in the EU for Watches Clocks and Jewellery
Martin Foster reviews trends in German made luxury watches and clocks – unsurpassed German quality is a drawcard for luxury consumers
After some years of economic malaise the German luxury industry is on the move! Not only has the attendance barometer of Inhorgenta Fair notched up a record 10,000 visitors who came from other countries for the first time but as well the foreign share of trade visitors increased strongly by 10%.
Manfred Stoffers, Managing Director of Festina Watches commented “Inhorgenta Europe demonstrated impressively how much the mood among retailers has changed to a positive one. We have never had a trade fair with so many appointments made in advance. Business was outstanding.”
The emphasis was on men’s jewellery, high-end pearls and pearl necklaces, coloured stones and especially boutique and designer jewellery. This same ‘small maker/exclusive product’ trend is evident amongst watch and clockmakers as well.
These were the opinions and trends evident at Munich’s Inhorgenta Europe 2007, the 34th International Fair for Watches, Clocks, Jewellery. A total of 1,183 exhibitors (2006: 1,138) from 44 countries exhibited their products to more than 30,000 trade visitors from more than 40 countries from February 23 to 26, 2007.
ERWIN SATTLER Clocks, reflecting the success of their high class super-elegant clocks have spent the year building a new factory which has, as its centrepiece a six times scaled up longcase clock mounted as a super-size feature on the end of the new manufactory. In terms of income earning they have expanded the scope of their range of clocks into table and ship’s clocks.
The NAUTIS is a new ships clock which uses the spring driven calibre 1395 gear train developed 2 years ago, which is a reliable, durable movement with a 15-day power reserve and fusee. The dial displays power reserve of the movement on a silvered regulator dial and the movement can be seen through panoramic crystal sides in a water-resistant, solid nickel plated bronze case. A gold-plated Swiss lever escapement with screwed balance is mounted on the back of the movement.
Chronoswiss has built Bavaria’s first watch factory uniting marketing and shipping departments all under one roof. The craft of watchmaking is the focal point of the entire facility. The structure’s central component is the rotunda, which contains the watch museum where sixty showcases, embedded at eyelevel into the interior and exterior sides, lead the visitor through regularly changing exhibitions.
This emphasis on infrastructure is certainly an indication of the confidence Sattler and Chronoswiss have in their own future. It is further reinforced by developments in that hothouse of German class and quality, Glashütte.
The official launch of Gurofa GmbH, a company set up by Sellita Watch CO S.A. of Switzerland and Mühle-Glashütte GmbH, took place in Glashütte on 3rd November 2006. At the end of the initial phase of production Gurofa expects to have 15 craftspeople producing precision engineered watch parts in large quantities. The company invested heavily in high technology to meet the very specific demands of making precision watch movement components.
Mühle-Glashütte GmbH are currently makers of watches and nautical instruments. Typical of their manufacture is the Mühle Pilot 3, a watch with clear, uncluttered style. It has an inner rotational bezel which shows important world cites to display the time in different time zones. The crown, typical for the Mühle pilot series, sets the bezel at the 6 o’clock position.
A secret armoury near Moscow was manufacturing a limited series of SOYUZ watches by order of Joseph Stalin in 1940s and Soviet political figures and the establishment were granted a SOYUZ watch as a distinction.
Three new SOYUZ models – “Officer”, “Constructor” and “Argo” were presented at Inhorgenta 2007. Additionally a new model with an independent name KGB Agent was also released.
SOYUZ brand is produced by Rekord Watch-Making Company Ltd in Moscow. It is unclear whether they are manufacturing movements or using buy-ins but certainly it is true that many of their models utilise Myota calibres from Japan. However the stylised tourbillon cage indicates more than a passing interest in stamping their new brand with a recognisable emblem.
Like the Mühle pilot series the crown is set against the strap but here, at the 12 o’clock position.
The move to modernise and create manufacturing expertise is, in many ways, a by-product of the Nicolas Hayek (Snr) announcement a few years ago that supply of movements from ETA would cease in due course. But it is also a measure of the health of the German industry (and the wider watch manufacture environment) ensuring this new independence will be a force to be reckoned with in terms of outstanding design and quality.
In this respect G Nicolas Hayek (CEO Swatch) made interesting observations in an interview in Kuala Lumpur last year:-
“ . . we feel responsible towards the industry and we like to have competition. We (Nivarox – Swatch) have nothing against anyone and we deliver to Richemont, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This is their recognition of our know-how. We are also a very reliable and a loyal partner but what we need is a challenge to us. We need to be challenged and if we continue to be alone it will be a problem for us. This is why we don’t want to deliver any more ebauche, only the finished movements, because we want to stimulate others to think about doing new movements and not always using the same engine. We need them to be more innovative, invest money and create something . . . ”
The range of tools available for the tradesman and broader manufactory can only be fully understood by attending the fair. The diversity is phenomenal. BOLEY who has set industry standards for many decades as the benchmark in precision watchmakers lathes, staking sets and tools have taken a much enlarged stand at the fair and they are promising an aggressive promotion of their excellent wares internationally.
The tool suppliers are reporting a resurgence of sales perhaps reflecting the volume of mechanical clocks and watches which have been streaming out of the makers factories this last decade or more.
Next year Inhorgenta Europe 2008 takes place a week later from February 15 to18.
Silver of the Stars' SILVER OF THE STARS’ GLITTERS IN ST PETERSBURG
A stunning collection of silver drinking vessels, created for some of the world’s biggest celebrities, will go on display at The State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg in July.
The exhibition, called Silver of the Stars, which has already been shown in London and New York, features whisky sets, tea services and coffee pots made from precious metal, glittering jewels and some surprisingly practical materials. Colin O Dubhghaill, Glasgow for Billy Connolly
The collection includes a quaich - a traditional Scottish whisky cup - for James Bond star, Sir Sean Connery and a chunky silver coffee pot with a recycled BMW motorbike handle to mark Star Wars actor Ewan McGregor’s bike ride around the world.
Other pieces in the collection include a decadent
absinthe goblet by fashion designer Alexander McQueen and a sinuous claret jug and beakers for theatre impresario Sir Cameron Mackintosh.
In total the Silver of the Stars collection is made up of 10 unique artworks created by some of the top silversmiths in the world.
It has been commissioned by The Incorporation of Goldsmiths of the City of Edinburgh to mark its 550th anniversary in 2008.
The Incorporation is one of the oldest organisations of its kind to be found anywhere in the globe and it still carries out the roles it was set up to fulfil more than half a millennium ago - namely to promote the work of Scotland’s gold and silversmiths and to provide the public with consumer protection.
Michael Laing, the Deacon of the Incorporation, says: “Scotland is home to a unique community of silversmiths and we have also produced some of the greatest names in the worlds of film, fashion, music and literature.
“By bringing the different disciplines together we have created something which is quite unique.”
The silversmiths and stars who collaborated on the designs were set the challenge of working to the brief of “a drink with a friend” and the results include a silver teapot fringed with gold and studded with diamonds for singer Sharleen Spiteri of the rock group Texas and a teapot shaped like a Harley Davidson three-wheeler for comedian Billy Connolly.
A handleless teapot was created for singer Lulu while the whisky service created for Harry Potter star, Robbie Coltrane, follow the sleek lines of the classic Cadillac cars for which the actor has a passion.
Violinist Nicola Benedetti is represented by a hot chocolate jug and mugs featuring violin scrolls while Rebus author Ian Rankin’s Irn Bru ( a traditional Scottish soft drink) flask and tumblers was inspired by the steel girders of the world famous Forth Bridge.
Alongside this collection, visitors to The State Hermitage Museum will also be able to view The Millennium Collection for Bute House which was made to mark the new millennium in 2000. This is the state silver of Scotland and it is used at banquets and on other official occasions by Scotland’s First Minister.
Also on display will be a selection of historic silver from the National Museums of Scotland including an 18th century silver-hilted sword and a 19th century claret jug.
Silver of the Stars will open at The State Hermitage Museum on July 5 and will remain at the Museum until August 5 before moving on to Beijing and Kyoto, then returning to Edinburgh for the Incorporation’s 550th anniversary in January 2008.
Support for the exhibition has come for The Scottish Executive, The Inches Carr Trust and the WM Mann Foundation.
John Wilson 'Relief Management Services' Gordon Hamme spoke to John Wilson about his new relief management service.
John explained about the thinking behind his new service. “My service provides a unique solution to retailers’ temporary management problems. Having run my own manufacturing and retail jewellery business since 1978, I’m well aware of how difficult it is to leave the business when needs dictate, whether that be for a holiday or personal reasons. For some it can all seem too much hassle as they only have two choices; either close the shop or go without a holiday.
So what have you done so far to spread the word?
“Well, being a Member of the Company of Master Jewellers for the past 18 years, I sent a mail out to all members explaining the concept, which has been really well received; a number of members have approached me for more details and I’ve already got firm bookings as a result.”
For those readers, who perhaps have not heard of John Wilson before, tells us a bit about yourself.
“As a youngster, I was trained as a goldsmith in Hatton Garden, before going on to set up ‘The Jewellery Workshop’ in Harlow, Essex. In 1989 I opened my current retail jewellery shop in the town centre, where we continue to trade very successfully, by offering a comprehensive range of jewellery services. It was also around that time that I joined the Company of Master Jewellers. Unfortunately, the redevelopment plans within Harlow town will result in the inevitable closure of my shop and as retirement is not on my agenda for some years yet, this forced closure will allow me to develop ‘Relief Management Services’, a concept that I have been formulating for some time.”
How do you see it working then?
“When I take a booking, I arrange a visit to the shop prior to the date booked, this provides the opportunity for me to get acquainted with the shop, meet the staff and for the retailer to discuss what they require as there are quite a number of services that I provide.”
So what are the different services you provide?
“It really depends on the individual retailer but I can provide sales and repair consultancy, key hold and be responsible for opening and closing, put together window display, organise banking through to administration. As an NAG Registered Valuer I can also carry out valuations which has proven to be a good revenue stream for many jewellers.”
Do you believe retailers will find it financially viable to get you on board?
“As a retailer myself, I know that the advantages far outweigh the cost of my services, and the cost is a lot less than would be lost in revenue by closing. By using my services the retailer is ensuring continuity of service, therefore his competitors don’t have the opportunity of poaching his client base. As we all know, people aren’t prepared to wait and the public will soon look elsewhere if we the retailers do not provide the service they want, when they want it. In addition, rather than having to impose an annual shut down on your staff, personnel can stagger their holidays which all helps to boost morale.
The cost incurred using my Interim Management Service is far less than the loss incurred in shutting up shop for a week or two and that loss can be felt for a long time after the holiday is just a distant memory.
Obviously there are retailers all over the country – are you willing to travel?
Sure. I want to offer this service to jewellers nationwide rather than concentrating locally so I’m more than happy to travel and distance isn’t a problem for me because I have a motorhome.
Gordon, “I’m sure that for a retailer to feel comfortable leaving their business in the hands of a relative stranger, they are going to need some reassurance from you? After all, this is their livelihood we’re talking about.”
“As a jewellery retailer myself I completely understand that people need reassurance so I took the initiative of applying for a CRB (Criminal Records Bureau) certificate. I now have this certificate which I can produce for any potential client proving I have no criminal record. I’m also aware that insurance could be a concern to some people and I’ve therefore spoken to TH March, whom I’ve been a client of for many years and they are happy to provide a reference if required. I would also be happy to sign a confidentiality agreement with the retailer.”
If you would like to discuss any aspect of the services John can provide or if there is any relief cover you may require, call John Wilson on 07900 931 910.
Everything's fine at fashion jewellers Erickson Beamon By Claire Adler.
Responsible for rendering costume jewellery hipper than hip ever since they started in 1983, American-born Karen Erickson and Vicki Beamon have constantly collaborated with the fashion world. Three years ago, they brought out their first diamond collection, designed “to be worn with jeans”. Claire Adler talks 2007 jewellery trends with Vicki Beamon.
Ungaro, John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, Dries van Noten, DKNY, Marc Jacobs and Roland Mouret – these are just a few of the fashion world’s biggest names with whom Erickson Beamon have collaborated.
Hometown friends from Detroit, Vicki Beamon and Karen Erickson left their Midwest lives for the bright lights of Manhattan, opening up their first shop in 1982 on New York’s Upper East Side.
While styling a runway show, the pair had no luck finding jewellers to lend them jewellery to accessorise the collection. So they began stringing crystals and beads on suede. In 1985, Erickson Beamon went transatlantic, moving to London to spearhead the European wholesale market and open their Elizabeth Street boutique.
To this day, Erickson Beamon’s workshop and boutique is located in that same location, in the heart of Belgravia, cheek-by-jowl with both contemporary artist jeweller, Leo de Vroomen and milliner Philip Treacy. Erickson Beamon jewellery can also be found in high end department stores and jewellery boutiques worldwide. The company’s only other workshop is based in Manhattan.
“Erickson Beamon makes the most magical things... precious treasures you want to keep forever,” British fashion designer Matthew Williamson has been quoted as saying.
It is true that Erickson Beamon has created jewellery which spans the style gamut from street fashion to haute couture. Its jewellery has appeared on the catwalks of over 30 international fashion designers. It’s no surprise then that high profile private clients and collectors range from Barbara Streisand to Britney Spears and Ralph Fiennes to Kate Moss.
Capitalising on the growth of luxury goods, Erickson Beamon has created an abundance of jewellery combining precious and semi-precious stones set in 22 carat gold. According to award-winning luxury fashion e-tailer, net-a-porter.com, Erickson Beamon are responsible for “resurrecting the choker and making the word chandelier mean more than just a fancy light fixture”.
There is certainly the sense at Erickson Beamon that costume jewellery is taken just as seriously and is just as precious as the real thing. It was a natural progression then in 2004 - to celebrate 21 years in the business – that Erickson Beamon brought forth its first diamond and 18 carat white gold collection.
More recently, the second instalment of Diamonds by Erickson Beamon, the Rose collection, was launched at a star studded event at upscale New York department store, Barneys.
“People are very comfortable wearing fine jewellery in the day,” says Vicki Beamon. “Our next diamond collection has even more of a day time feel, although our current pieces are already designed so that you can wear them with a great pair of jeans.”
So what does Vicki Beamon see as being key trends in 2007?
“For a while, people wanted big dangly earrings and then charms,” she says. “But I think now more than ever, it’s up to the individual and there isn’t one specific overarching trend. Clothes for spring have a modernist feel and embellishment is something I’ve seen quite a lot of. Jewellery will still play an important role. Individualistic jewellery is very of the moment, but it’s more eccentric than before.”
At Erickson and Beamon, there are cameos but instead of a pretty and traditional look, they’re coupled with brightly coloured aluminium chains. It’s a quirky and fun interpretation. Erickson Beamon is currently working with Australian fashion label Easton Pearson. As part of a Rock n Roll collection for the brand, very thin leather straps are combined with studding.
Beamon notes that jewellery customers are keen to take precious-looking pieces to a higher level of luxury. “I think that fine jewellery will make stronger statements than we’re used to seeing. I see black diamonds as working well in our collections,” she says.
As a stockist of a plethora of emerging contemporary designers, Beamon talks fluently about current jewellery trends. Erickson Beamon stocks contemporary jewellery from the likes of Scott Stephen, Scott Wilson and Natalia Brilli, all of whom are represented by Valery de Mure, the Hackney-based agent who represents a cluster of edgy designers. Others include the Parisian Marie Helene de Taillac and Belmacz.
“ There has been an overkill of tinkly, semi precious beads on strands. I see the look becoming more bold than that,” says Beamon. “Take Marie Helene de Taillac. Her jewellery is very feminine but it doesn’t have that tinkly quality, it embraces bolder shapes and it’s more graphic looking. It’s as if the feminine is becoming more masculine.”
At Erickson Beamon, earrings were selling particularly well, thanks to the huge selection on offer, coupled with the fact that they make great gifts and are ideal for dressing up an outfit.
Beamon is a huge fan of London and believes it is an international centre for both the jewellery and fashion worlds. “London is always full of creative people. We may not always agree with the look but somehow it paves a way forward. England influences the whole world and is ahead of the game,” she says.
“On the one hand, at Erickson Beamon we stay very close to the fashion world. We pride ourselves on being fashion forward, setting trends and having a strong feeling about what is coming next. In fact, we often find we’re ahead of ourselves and a trend we instigate might be picked up half a year later. Editors of fashion magazines, like Italian Vogue, routinely call us up for feedback on their own ideas. On the other hand though, I’m aware that jewellery is a separate entity to fashion. People don’t necessarily follow the fashion world when it comes to choosing jewellery as sometimes the runway doesn’t show jewellery.”
Beamon is currently keeping her eye on rising London jewellery talents including those she refers to as the “new heroes”, who include Gareth Pugh and Christopher Cane. “And I also love the work of Scott Wilson, Scott Stephens and Shaun Leane,” she enthuses.
J-dex magazine 
