J-dex magazine


Editorial
Protecting Reputation

Trade talk
News in the trade

Secrets of the Goldsmiths' Company

GF Williams
Passionate about Gems

Emelda Marcos
New jewellery line

Gower Report
Will it support UK Designers

Johnny Rocket's silver corset

Design Innovation Award Competition.

www.hattongarden.com

Features

Birmingham
Spring Fair


Sheldon Bloomfield
Curteis
Moissonite Design Competition
Emagold
Bransom
Paula Bolton
Marcus McCallum
Unique Jewelry & Gemex
Kayman Award
AnchorCert
SafeGuard
Hean Studio
Hot Diamonds
Trollbeads
Davran
Tankel

J-dex World of Diamonds
By Gordon Hamme

Trends: The Rise of Bespoke
By Claire Adler

Wedding Ring Round up
By Gordon Hamme

Antiques for the Future II

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February 2007

Front cover
David Bercott
Te/Fax: 0141 616 3506

email: david@davidbercott.co.uk

Welcome to the February 2007 issue of J-Dex online monthly magazine.
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Editorial

Protecting Reputation.
Diamonds - The Great Escape

In the very recent past huge companies and whole industries have been swept away by reputational damage. The speed at which information sweeps around the world is how fast an industry or company can be mauled.

I recently spoke to a diamond mining company representative, “You've had a lucky escape,” I commented, “No,” he said. “We've had, that is our whole industry, a lucky escape.”

The Leonardo DiCaprio movie ‘Blood Diamond' has galvanised the diamond industry into action to protect itself from adverse press comment and publicity. De Beers has spent $15 million on press and public relations to express its point of view. The film highlights the misery of artisanal mining and the death and mayhem surrounding the fighting for control of the mineral deposits in African countries. The film has been shown first in America from where we have received reviews:

BLOOD DIAMOND MOVIE REVIEW BY DAILY VARIETY

‘Having already roiled the diamond industry, “Blood Diamond” arrives with the best of intentions, harrowing sequences but ultimately mixed results. Another sweeping, at times heartbreaking view of the horrors inflicted upon Africa (in this case, Sierra Leone's civil war) it's also a quest for a fabulous stone that Hitchcock would have called a MacGuffin - namely, an ice-cube-sized pink diamond.

Leonardo DiCaprio and Djimon Hounsou deliver powerful moments, but those moments are liberally spaced along a lengthy trek - one that periodically pauses to scold the U.S. audience for complicity in the region's exploitation. As such, overseas appeal might outstrip the yield from domestic mines.

Set in 1999, rebels wage war against Sierra Leone's government, and the movie quickly establishes the brutal toll exacted on innocent bystanders: Rebels raid a village occupied by the fisherman Solomon

Vandy (Hounsou) lopping off arms, murdering women and children, and sending his family fleeing. Solomon himself is taken hostage and forced to labor in the mining camps, which generate millions of dollars used to finance the arms trade and thus perpetuate Africa's bloody nightmare. Before escaping during a government assault, however, Solomon unearths and hides and enormous, invaluable diamond, word of which reaches smuggler Danny Archer (DiCaprio) who prefers the label “soldier of fortune.”

Danny convinces Solomon that the only way to reunite his family is to sell the diamond and use the proceeds. Meanwhile, a journalist, Maddy (Jennifer Connelly) wants the Afrikaner's aid in exposing trafficking in “conflict stones” - diamonds plucked from war-torn areas and laundered through legitimate Western merchants.

Director Ed Zwick and writer Charles Leavitt perhaps strike their most lingering chord via a subplot involving Solomon's son, Dia (Kagiso Kuypers), who is brought into rebel custody and transformed into a “child soldier.” The indoctrination includes teaching youths to kill almost casually, and the sight of children ruthlessly brandishing automatic weapons becomes one of the film's more indelible images.

In the end, though, Zwick is trying to juggle several balls at once and does so with a heavy hand - delivering a history lesson on the sordid resource exploitation of Africa from within and from abroad, expounding on the role of wanton consumerism and still developing a traditional quest thriller that will theoretically open Danny's blinkered eyes to the suffering around him. It's a tremendous amount of ground to cover, and the film's last third is less than wholly convincing or satisfying, unable to deliver on its early promise.

DiCaprio nevertheless again acquits himself admirably after “The Departed,” bringing a roguish charm to Danny. Hounsou is also characteristically strong as the movie's moral center - thrust into a familiar position regarding cinematic Africa (think “Hotel Rwanda”) as well as his own resume separated from and struggling to safeguard his family, as chaos erupts all around him.

Filmed almost entirely in Africa this picture captures a big, adventurous scope, including sweeping vistas of lush jungle, large-scale bursts of action and a massive refugee camp poignantly described as “an entire country made homeless.”

Africa's enduring sorrow is ripe for drama, but “Blood Diamond” is, finally, a fitting metaphor for the gems: Potentially brilliant from a distance, but upon closer inspection, one likely will see the flaws.

Following the premier of the film Oprah Winfrey interviewed the stars of Blood Diamond: A film to be seen.

Top rated daytime television programme the Oprah Winfrey Show on the ABC Network devoted a segment to the Blood Diamond movie. Winfrey treated her viewing audience to interviews with the movie's star Leonardo DiCaprio, co-star Djimon Hounsou, and producer Ed Zwick on December 4,2006.

Winfrey called the movie “great,” and added “Blood Diamond is jarringly violent” with a “gut wrenching story line” referring to a main premise of following Hounsou's character on a search for his family in war-torn Sierra Leone.

The film is fictional and not taken from a single source, Zwick said, but the general story of the war needed to be told.

Winfrey featured a segment during the show on how the diamond industry has rallied its players to adopt the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and added, “It is important to know that the sale of conflict free diamonds is actually saving many African countries.”

She told the success story of Botswana and Namibia, showing images and data from those diamond economies, countries that were enabled to build schools, and roads, fund education and health care for thousands of residents on diamond revenue.

Zwick said the movie was not intended to sway consumers away from buying diamonds when Winfrey asked, “not at all. You talked about it first with Leonardo, but when you are a consumer - understand what the choice is and make a choice that is informed.”

To consumers Zwick said, “You can sit there (or) you can say ‘I want to see a warranty' and a certificate to make a difference and effect thousands of lives.”

Winfrey told her audience, “Blood Diamond - it is not for children. But you should go see it.”

Susan Thea Posnock of the National Jeweler Magazine reported,” On The Oprah Winfrey Show, Blood Diamond Director Ed Zwick and stars Leonardo DiCaprio and Djimon Hounsou had a fairly diamond-industry-positive discussion on conflict diamonds with host Oprah Winfrey.

While the message was clearly that conflict diamonds are bad, none of Winfrey's guests were critical of the diamond industry.”

“You're not telling people to stop buying diamonds?” Winfrey asked Zwick, to which he responded, “Not at all.”

Brian Chalfen the managing director of H.Chalfen, a diamond jewellery maker in Hatton Garden, saw the premier of the film in New York. Brian commented, “It's a great film to see and even forgetting the great DiCaprio performance it shows horrific black against black violence, which has nothing to do with the diamond industry.

From a diamond point of view there is a short piece concerning a meeting of the Diamond High Council covering the Kimberly Process however the star of the film does comment in the middle of the film, “ Does anyone think of the things going on in Africa?”

Brian did pick up on the phrase, ‘This is Africa' which encapsulates the attitude that what goes on in Africa is separate and unrelated to American and European legislation and cultural values and shouldn't be applied to the African continent.

Martin Rapaport, an influential American diamond industry commentator said about Blood Diamond movie:

‘Every member of the diamond and jewelry industry must see this film. It is as strong and violent as Africa. It has the potential to activate us to do good.

The Blood Diamond movie is a clear signal to the diamond industry that we must raise our ethical awareness and moral consciousness. The real issue is not the quality of the movie, its impact on the mindset and subconscious of diamond consumers, or our diamond sales. It is time for us to wake up and question what kind of people we are. Do we give damn about the diggers in Africa or are we only concerned about ourselves, our sales, and our profits?

The real issue is not us. It is the diggers of Africa and the people of Sierra Leone. The war is over but the extreme poverty and suffering continues. We must ask ourselves - is there anything we can do to help these people?

We must help. Not because we are guilty of anything and not because opportunist NGOs generate publicity. The reason we must relate to the people of Sierra Leone is because we in the diamond and jewelery industry are decent human beings. Because the diggers in Sierra Leone are as much a part of our industry as we are. Because the diamond dream that we all sell does not only belong to our customers and us. The diamond dream also belongs to the people of Africa.

‘We must wake up to the fact that the poorest people of Africa, the artisanal diggers, are a part of our diamond family - and that we must share our wealth with them. We must learn to care about other because it is the right thing to do.'

Global Witness and Amnesty International – What the NGOs are saying.

Non-governmental organizations Global Witness and Amnesty International, along with representatives of the Blood Diamond movie, have unveiled a new Web site offering visitors information about conflict diamonds and opportunities for involvement in the issue.

Under the “Take Action” heading, Blooddiamondaction.org urges consumers to see the film, write to the World Diamond Council or to U.S. Assistant Secretary of the Bureau of Economic and Business Affairs Daniel S. Sullivan, and to download information about conflict diamonds before buying a diamond.

The home page of the site states that “blood diamond” conflicts have caused the death of an estimated 3.7 million people in Angola, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Liberia and Sierra Leone.

“Even now, up to $23 million of conflict diamonds are entering the legitimate diamond trade annually from Cote d'Ivoire in West Africa,” the site states.

And next coming soon to a T.V. near you!

‘Blood on the Stone'

‘Blood on the Stone' is a 50 minute documentary presented by multi-award winning African journalist Sorious Samura. Mixing “living with...” style journalism with dangerous undercover secret filming, the camera follows Sorious as he travels across Sierra Leone, Democratic Republic of Congo and to the United States to find out if diamonds could ever again fund war and revolution in his continent.

“Diamonds have always been a symbol of wealth, power and romance. But maybe not all diamonds should end up on engagement rings.” The story starts in his home country, Sierra Leone, where ‘blood diamonds' were used to fund a bloody civil war by the rebel group the Revolutionary Untied Front or RUF. For him it is personal, his brother was killed in the conflict and he filmed first hand the horrors of murder, torture, beatings and mutilations.

The war is over and since then more than 70 countries have signed up to the ‘Kimberley Process', designed to stop these diamonds entering the stores of the western world. Sorious visits the Kimberley Process office in the capital, Freetown. He finds a system in place that is bringing in extra income for the Sierra Leonean government. But when he ventures further into the country, working as an unregulated miner, he discovers the hellish conditions that are endured for those digging for diamonds. He also discovers illegal smuggling routes into Guinea and through secret filming shows how easy it is to sell diamonds on the black market with the only paperwork exchanging hands being American dollars.

Moving on to the Democratic Republic of Congo Sorious finds that some unregulated diamond mines are still engulfed in low-level conflicts. Miners are murdered for their diamonds by criminal gangs and in return the miners resort to mob justice killings.

In New York City Sorious goes undercover posing as a Congolese diamond dealer, dressed immaculately and carrying $50,000 worth of diamonds. Using secret cameras he enters various stores and is shocked to find how easy it is to sell would be conflict diamonds. Greed is apparent and the pressure to sell is almost too much. One dealer tells him: “Those stones, these stones and all the stones you have in Congo I'll buy everything. Give me the ultimate, ultimate, ultimate best price. I'll take out the cash and buy right now.” So desperate is he to close the deal $10,000 in cash is produced and thrust towards Sorious.

Looking over Manhattan Sorious delivers his final piece to camera. Avoiding all diamonds is not a solution – “Most diamonds provide jobs for tens of thousand of Africans but as long as some of these stones continue to fund the maimings, rapings and killings, then how on earth can we offer these diamonds as a true symbol of love?”

After watching this documentary, any item, report or film the audience will see about diamonds and conflict in Africa will remind them of the feelings they felt when they first watched “Blood on the Stone”. This film shows what we consume in the developed world has a direct link to what seem to be far off conflicts and desperate situations which are of no concern to us. We are, now more than ever, defined by what we buy and as such should know exactly where our diamonds as well as other mineral resources are coming from.

Prodco: www.insightnewstv.com

The Rapaport Group is establishing a non-profit fund for the education of the children of artisanal diamond diggers in Sierra Leone. Rapaport will be donating $100,000 to kick off this program. Rapaport have asked and hope that others will work with us so that we may do something powerfully good for the people of Sierra Leone. We are also establishing a non-profit organization - The Fair Trade Diamond and Jewelry Association - that will work to ensure fair compensation and beneficiation to the poorest members of our industry.

For more information contact us via Email fairtrade@diamonds.net.

J-dex would also like to galvanise the British Jewellery industry market into action by supporting the Rapaport initiative. If you are interested in becoming part of a group to discuss and highlight these issues please contact Gordon Hamme on gordon,hamme@j-dex.com

We believe that education and law reform on child labour in Africa are fundamental steps towards a freer and fairer African society

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TRADE TALK

SECRETS OF THE GOLDSMITHS' COMPANY

The spring exhibition at Goldsmiths' Hall

March 5 to 31, 2007

Free Exhibition

THE GOLDSMITHS' COMPANY, one of the Great Twelve Livery Companies of the City of London, will be opening its grand and impressive doors next spring to reveal a fascinating and entertaining exhibition “Secrets of the Goldsmiths' Company”. Held in the splendid grandeur of Goldsmiths' Hall, itself one of London's hidden architectural treasures, the exhibition, which is free, will run from Monday March 5 through to Saturday March 31, 2007.

Numbered five in order of rank, the Goldsmiths', which received its Royal Charter in 1327, is one of the oldest of the 107 Livery Companies which exist in the City of London today. With an august history spanning some seven centuries, the exhibition will answer many frequently asked questions regarding the Company's origins, its early benefactors, its members, its responsibilities for hallmarking, its role as a long-standing supporter of the goldsmiths trade, its traditions and ceremonies and its close connections with the City of London.

On display will be silver, historical documents, architectural designs, paintings and a variety of other intriguing and miscellaneous artefacts and objects which illustrate the Company's long and distinguished past. The exhibits come from the Company's own collections, archives and its extensive library. Many of the pieces have never previously been on show to the public.

The roots of the Goldsmiths' Company date back to the trade guilds of the Middle Ages and since 1300 it has been responsible for hallmarking gold and silver articles, and from 1975, platinum articles. The word hallmark originates from the fifteenth century when London craftsmen were first required to bring their wares to Goldsmiths' Hall for assaying and marking.

One of the oldest items in the exhibition is a Roman altar stone dating from the second century AD which was excavated during the building of current hall in 1830. The Hall is the third on the same site – the Goldsmiths' Company purchased the plot in 1339 – and was designed by the architect Philip Hardwick. It opened in 1835 and has been described as an urban palazzo. Many of Hardwick's original designs the interior decoration of the Hall, including detailed drawings of furniture, curtains, chandeliers, and carpets specially designed as part of the overall scheme will be on display.

Visual references to some of the early benefactors will be on display such as the Bowes cup, the magnificent silver gilt cup from which Queen Elizabeth I drank at her coronation and which Sir Martin Bowes, Prime Warden of the Company in 1558, presented to the Company as a “remembrance”. The Bowes Cup remains one of the principal treasures of the Company's antique silver collection. A cased wooden log section, the remnants of the first means of piping fresh water into the City from Islington, is one of the more curious exhibits.

VENUE:

Goldsmiths' Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2V 6BN,

Tel: 020 7606 7010

www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

EXHIBITION DATES: Monday March 5 – Saturday, March 31

OPENING TIMES: Monday – Saturday 10.00am – 5.00pm

ADMISSION: Free

 

THE SILVERSMITHS AND JEWELLERS ANNUAL CHARITY DINNER

The 51st annual fund-raising dinner in aid of the work of The Silversmiths and Jewellers Charity was held at the Royal Automobile Club, Pall Mall, London on Friday, 24 November. The event was oversubscribed but the RAC agreed to squeeze everyone in. Michael Wainwright, Managing Director of Boodles and a Trustee of the Charity, accompanied by his wife Annie, presided over the evening. Amongst the distinguished guests were Dick Melly, Clerk of The Goldsmiths' Company and his wife Lynne, Grant Macdonald, Third Warden of the Company and his wife Diana and Michael Allchin, Master of the Birmingham Assay office. Guest speaker was an up-and-coming young Welsh comedian and scriptwriter, Rod Woodward, who kept his audience highly entertained.

The Charity, which uniquely embraces every sector of the Trade throughout the United Kingdom, was established in 1827. It provides financial help to current and retired Trade employees and their spouses who find themselves in straitened circumstances because of sickness, disability or poverty. The simple, twofold criteria to qualify for assistance are service to the Trade and genuine need and sometimes the need is desperate; for example Ken, a retail jeweller who contracted an incurable neurological disease. Paralysed and bedridden he was financially supported by the Charity for over twenty years. Or Bernard, a jewellery maker in Hatton Garden for 37 years, who suffered a stroke in his fifties leaving him paralysed. Diagnosed with spine cancer he had to go into a nursing home where he needed a powered wheelchair costing £2,000. Thanks to the Charity Bernard got his chair.

To coincide with the celebration of its 180th anniversary in 2007 the Charity has launched a special appeal to the Trade for funds to ensure that its work supporting Trade colleagues will be ongoing for as long as it is needed.

The Jewellers & Silversmiths Charity

Contact details: Malcolm Pullan Tel: 01582 599800

e-mail malcolm.pullan1@ntlworld.com

Imelda Marcos launches jewellery line.

Manila, Philippines—Former first lady of the Philippines Imelda Marcos—known for spending millions on shoes, clothing and real estate while her countrymen lived in poverty—has launched a fashion jewelry collection.

Marcos, 77, created the Imelda Collection this month after learning of the “hopelessness and helplessness of Filipinos everywhere,” according to the collection's Web site.

Marcos used components of her personal collection of costume jewelry from around the world and Swarovski crystals to create the jewelry, which includes bib necklaces, brooches and bracelets.

“You don't have to be rich to be beautiful,” Marcos says in a statement on the Web site. “Sometimes I have been rich. Sometimes I haven't. But there is still beauty out there. It may cost you the earth, it may be quite cheap, but in nature it might even be free.”

Marcos created the jewels at the urging of her son, Martin “Borgy” Manotoc.

The Web site does not give further information about the jewelry's distribution or price points.

Promotional photos for the Imelda Collection, have a comical twist that Marcos hopes will appeal to a younger generation.

From Gems & Gemology: “Sunset Quartz” – A new gem material from Brazil

In July 2006, a new deposit of yellow-to-orange quartz was discovered in northern Minas Gerais State, Brazil. The material was found by prospector Jean-Claude Nydegger, when he noted some quartz veins containing transparent to opaque areas that varied from white to yellow-orange. Closer examination revealed a few thin bands with an attractive yellow-orange color.

Approximately 1,500 kg of quartz were extracted from the veins, but only 5 kg of this was gem quality. The cut gems typically weigh 1–10 carats; the largest known to the article's contributors is 19.5 cts. and deep orange (figure 1). Due to the resemblance of the colors to those of a setting sun, it is suggested that the material be called “sunset quartz.”

Figure 1. The largest “sunset quartz” known to the authors weighs 19.5 cts. Photo by Federico Caprilli.

G.F.WILLIAMS
Passionate about Gems

Relative Pricing

In previous columns I have touched on the relative pricing of gem materials and the factors to take into consideration when pricing a coloured stone.

The Size factor.

As women are our main customers in the end we listen carefully to their thoughts on ‘size not being important', however, stones of a comparable quality and their relative rarity in increasingly large sizes, has a huge factor on price.

For example a well cut 90 point stone versus a lumpy 1.01 coloured stone may have been cut away from ideal proportions in order for the stone to remain in a higher price band.

However, unlike the pricing of Diamonds, each coloured gem material needs to be assessed individually. A very good example of this is Aquamarine. This is one of the few gem materials where the price does not always increase with size. A 5 carat stone of comparable quality may well be the same price per carat as a 20 carat example. Smaller stones under 3 carats, of high quality, attract a premium as they are relatively rare, clean with good colour.

Another example of this is to compare the increase in price per carat of a Sapphire to Rubies. The blue Sapphire price per carat certainly increases with size but nowhere near as much as it does with Ruby. A 4 carat Ruby is a rare stone. The relative increase in prices has been given below for stones of equal quality.

Sapphire

2 carat @ 200 per carat

3 carat @ 300 per carat

4 carat @ 400 per carat

Ruby

2 carat @ 200 per carat

3 carat @ 600 per carat

4 carat @ 1100 per carat

 

GOWERS REPORT IMMINENT – WILL IT SUPPORT UK DESIGNERS?

The long awaited Gowers Report, commissioned by The Chancellor, on the UK's intellectual property framework is due for announcement (so ACID is led to believe) by the Chancellor of the Exchequer on 6th November in his pre-budget speech.

As a major stakeholder representing companies worth over 3 billion pounds, ACID will issue an immediate response to the report's contents:

How will it affect ACID's members and all the UK's designers, manufacturers and key influencers? In a recent survey of over 600 designers and manufacturers, only 19 had registered designs, ACID hopes that IP education will be high on the list of priorities.

Will it include the following submissions made by ACID to the treasury in March 2006?
• Unlawful Imitation - the introduction of a new law of unlawful imitation (but only to bring the UK in line with the majority of other European countries on unfair competition), thereby eliminating one of the most costly, time consuming and difficult legal remedies for many small companies to rely upon, that of “passing off”

• Disparity between copyright owners and design right owners - why should a furniture designer have more rights than, say, an illustrator? Why should an author have moral rights and not a lighting designer?

• Design right infringements to have criminal sanctions - at the moment there is little disincentive to copyists encouraging design theft as a “soft touch”

• Inclusion of design infringement in the UK's National IP Crime strategy - at present designers do not have a voice in national policy in The Patent Office Report's current format

• Increase in exemplary damages to discourage the culture that its OK to copy and free ride on another's design ideas.

• Educate to Protect - a national educational scheme to encourage understanding and knowledge of IP as a positive tool to exploit and underpin innovation focussing on practical tools of self help, such as generic industry standard legal agreements

• Pressure placed on design buyers to make a publicly declared inclusion in their CSR's of support for the creative industries, respect for intellectual property rights and a commitment to “commission original work and not copy it”.

• Influence and pressure should also be exerted on those design buyers when caught out to be discouraged from stonewalling challenge and perpetuating litigation fuelled by their legal purchasing capability. IP lawyers, too, have a responsibility to work within recognised and regulatory frameworks, there are some that hide behind time wasting smokescreens of legalese and should be discouraged. What other profession regulates itself? There must be a real commitment to mediate rather than litigate and mediation should be encouraged in CSR statements from major retailers and manufacturers.

• A highly visible National Intellectual Property insurance scheme, accessible, affordable and available to all innovators. We insure our cars, houses, why not the value created in our IP – what better deterrent could there be against copying?

• Education - greater promotion and awareness of the relatively new and much unpublicised registered UK and registered Community design right lasting 25 years in 25 members states. Having a monopoly right, a certificate which say you own a design, is much less legally expensive to pursue if there is an infringement because you don't have to prove copying. Again, there is a deterrent element in publicising such a registered design on marketing literature, websites, etc.

Dids Macdonald, CEO ACID, to receive a full copy of ACID's submission please contact ACID's office: 0845 6443617

Johnny designs solid silver corset with Vermeil Orchids worn by Karolina Kurkova on the runway for Victoria's Secret in Los Angeles.

Johnny Rocket has created a solid sterling silver handmade four panel corset with 24 carat vermeil orchids for Supermodel Karolina Kurkova which featured at the star studded Victoria's Secret Runway show. The piece was made in collaboration with Cookson's and utilised five kilograms of silver. The partnership between the cutting edge jewellery company continues the successful association started when the two companies collaborated on the Fender 60th birthday event.

Victoria's Secret moved its annual supermodel runway show from New York to Los Angeles' Kodak Theatre, the home of the Oscars. Justin Timberlake will perform alongside a parade of VS lovelies. The world's most beautiful supermodels including Gisele Bundchen, Karolina Kurkova, Angela Lindvall and Adriana Lima, winged their way down the catwalk.

The event is second only to the annual Superbowl event, and has minimum viewing figures of 10 million.

Fiona Wright launches her new collection of contemporary jewellery

Inspired by the trees of its source, this contemporary jewellery is made from recycled newspaper. The pieces were developed during experimentation with newspapers found left on the underground. The forms are inspired by natural woodland: the branches, twigs and leaves of trees in particular. The paper is either spun or rolled and twisted to form a yarn from which the neckpieces and bangles are then developed. Each piece has many stories to tell: from the original newsprint, through the material's journeys - taking a part in one commuter's life and then left for another - to its transformation into a unique piece of contemporary jewellery. The final chapter is provided by the wearer adding their personal expression of individuality.

GIA Museum Collection receives large Turkish diaspore

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently received a 24.60 ct. step-diamond cut, color-change Turkish diaspore that is marketed as ZultaniteTM. The gem was donated by Zultanite Gems LLC and will become part of the Institute's permanent Museum collection.

“This donation is meant to show GIA our appreciation for identifying the first Zultanite crystal two decades ago,” said Murat Akgun, managing director of Zultanite Gems LLC. “Through GIA's research help, we learned that it is a phenomenal gemstone unique to Turkey. We hope its presence in the GIA Museum will help the public learn more about this special gem and its origins.”

Zultanite is a transparent gem with phenomenal properties such as chatoyancy and colour change, and it has a hardness of 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale. The stone appears yellow-green/green-yellow in daylight/fluorescent light and shifts to brownish, purplish pink in incandescent light.

“We are pleased to receive such a large and impressive example of Zultanite,” said Patricia Syvrud, GIA's director of In-Kind Gifts. “Mr. Akgun's generous gift, now part of our permanent collection, allows us to share this material with our researchers, students, and the visiting public.”

NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN THE HATTON GARDEN
AREA

From March 2007, Fiona McKeith, Jewellery Sector Manager, and her Change Act Share team will relocate into the Langdales Building on St. Cross Street in Hatton Garden. Change Act Share is one of a number of projects financed by the City Fringe Partnership from the Jewellery Sector Investment Plan (JSIP), and hosted by the London Borough of Camden. The JSIP is a £3m investment plan to support the jewellery industry in London, funded by the London Development Agency (LDA). Change Act Share will coordinate the JSIP communications including the www.change-act-share website, business directory and an on-line forum. It will also signpost businesses for training and support as well as workspace opportunities and grants for equipment and fit-out.

Fit-out grants now:

To be eligible to apply for the current round of fit-out grants you need to be:

1. A jewellery manufacturing business

2. Operating for less than three years

3. In the Hatton Garden area or moving into the Hatton Garden area.

(Hatton Garden is defined as the area between the west side of Farringdon Road to Leather Lane, Clerkenwell Road to Holborn Circus)

Grants of two thirds of the costs you incur will be given. Therefore, it you spend £9,000 you will receive £6,000. The minimum grant is £2,000, the maximum £15,000. The amount of grant you are eligible for also depends on the number of employees in the business. Businesses are encouraged to apply for new kit and technology, not just benches and building works.

London Borough of Camden are using its Planning Policies to generate these funds through legal agreements with property owners seeking to develop schemes in Hatton Garden. However, it's not only funds they are generating, it's workspace too.

Register for Workspace:

Why not register for workspace? A new policy recently implemented, looks likely to generate a supply of affordable workspace in the next 18 months. Change Act Share want to hear from jewellery manufacturing businesses looking to move workshops in the next two years to develop a property register for when these opportunities arise.

Workspaces now:

Eight small workspaces for start-ups and three for businesses whose current leases are under threat will be available in Langdales, St. Cross Street from March 2007.

Hatton Garden to get a new strategic group:

Finally, Hatton Garden is to get a new strategic group. Letters have gone out to Hatton Garden businesses inviting applicants for a new Hatton Garden group. Part of their remit will be to assess applications for grants and advise the Council on planning applications as well as promote Hatton Garden as London's prime trade and consumer destination for jewellery.

For further information, please contact Rabiya Hussain, Jewellery Sector Communications Officer if any of these opportunities interest you at :

rabiya.hussain@camden.gov.uk or call on 0207 973 2271.

Tel: 020 7613 8127

Email:
joseph.hannam-maggs@cityfringe.org.uk

The London Borough of Camden

Camden Council has employed a jewellery development officer to work with the industry since 2003. As well as undertaking research to understand the importance of Hatton Garden to the industry and co-ordinating the development of the JSIP, the Council has also secured a building on St. Cross Street through a planning agreement to act as a centre to benefit the jewellery trade and provide links with the local community. The Council hopes that the JSIP will strengthen the Hatton Garden cluster and stimulate new jobs and training opportunities for its residents.
For further information, please see: www.camden.gov.uk

Press Officer Contact: Jason Grimsley

Tel: 020 7974 5238

Email: jason.grimsley@camden.gov.uk

Inhorgenta Europe – A pure passion for Jewellery

Munich - 23-26 February 2007

The success and internationality of Inhorgenta 2006 has aroused much excitement in the jewellery industry across not just Europe but also worldwide. It has also consolidated the fact that this trade fair is the most international and important platform from which to showcase both current and up-and-coming trends in the jewellery world.

What you can expect to see at Inhorgenta Europe 2007: The Platinum Forum will again host a great variety of designs using this precious metal; hall C2 will showcase over 300 designers' outstanding and cutting edge designs; the Innovation Prize, which has become one of the most respected prizes within the jewellery industry, will be awarded for the eighth time to designers with trendsetting designs, and seminars on topical issues within the industry take place throughout the show.

The British Jewellery Federation will again have a stand for up-and-coming UK designers at Inhorgenta – this time within the Designer Jewellery Hall (C2). Please contact Mike Josypenko or Kate Finch for further information on 0121 237 1117.

Inhorgenta Europe is for a great meeting ground for people who are passionate about jewellery, clocks, watches, precious stones and pearls. For further information and to register for the trade fair please go to www.inhorgenta.com.

Georgia Wiseman, Design Innovation Award winner 2006

Design Innovation Award, sponsored by Lonmin – time to enter the 2007 competition

Now is the time to enter the platinum-based Design Innovation Award 2007. Aimed at designers whether independent or working for a manufacturer, this prestigious competition was launched by Blue Inc, publishers of the Platinum Collection five years ago to drive forward contemporary jewellery design in platinum.
Sponsored by Lonmin, one of the world's primary producers of platinum, the award is judged under a two-part system which recognises established designers - with more than five years' experience - and emerging designers - those with less than five years experience.

Eight winners are selected by a distinguished panel of judges which in 2006 included internationally renowned designer Stephen Webster, the Platinum Guild International, Lonmin and long term supporter of the event Johnson Matthey. An exclusive marketing and PR campaign is organised to help promote the winning designers and their achievement is celebrated at a spectacular award party which last year took place at London's modern hotel design icon, The Hempel.

The 2006 competition showcased a number of innovative designs from an ‘Anger' pendant (part of a collection based on the Seven Deadly Sins) to an organic ring based on the form of an octopus tentacle. The eight winners were Adrian Ashley, Alexa Blampied, Miranda Chapman, Steve Parsons, Jig Pattni, Emma Taylor, Aimee Winstone and Georgia Wiseman.

2006 winner Miranda Chapman enthused:

“The coverage received from winning this competition is getting much more extensive every year. It was mentioned in every major trade publication and I am still enjoying the publicity now, more than four months after the competition winners were announced. The photos taken as part of the prize, were stunning! Having my designs recognised by an esteemed group of judges from within the industry gave me a huge amount of confidence.”

2006 winner Jig Pattni commented:

“Nothing can stimulate one's confidence more than to receive an award from an exclusive competition such as this, especially as the judges at the top level of the industry support it. The designer's client will now view their work with a new perspective.”

Full application forms with drawings and/or images must be received by 20th March 2007. Designers interested in entering or hearing more about this competition should contact Julie Dauncey on 020 8995 5006 or email julie@blueincevents.co.uk

 

Too Good to Hide: Jewellery by Kate Brightman.

Big, bold and beautiful are just a few words that could be used to describe jewellery by up-and-coming designer Kate Brightman. The Kent based jewellery designer's fresh and funky designs are a must for anyone who wants to stand up and be noticed. This jewellery doesn't just say something about who you are, it screams it!

“I produce jewellery that craves attention; sculptural, organic forms that explore limitations in terms of wearability” says Kate who has already produced work for prestigious London shows, One Year On at New Designers and Springboard at Origin: The London Craft Fair.

Combining highly polished silver with clear resin Kate creates an illusionary effect with the ‘Domed Collection'. In contrast the ‘Wooden Collection' has a natural quality comprising of turned rosewood embellished with sumptuous gold leaf. With natural, flowing forms, the ‘Splat Collection' exudes a feeling of fun. These highly sculptural objects long to be out on show and not hidden away in a jewellery box. With stunning collections of exclusive handmade jewellery Kate is guaranteed to go far.

For the opportunity to see this exciting new work and to find out where Kate will be exhibiting next visit her website at www.katebrightman.co.uk

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FEATURES

Spring Fair Preview 2007

Spring Fair Birmingham is an institution in the world of international retail, an annual fixture that exists to provide optimum conditions for high calibre UK and overseas buyers to meet - at the optimum time of the year - to conduct business with manufacturers and distributors.

Four core buying zones, Giving, Living, Greetings and Jewellery, house 4,000 exhibitors. Itís an unmissable chance to pick up fast-moving lines and preview hot products for 2007/2008.

Three dedicated Jewellery halls 17, 18 & 19 showcase the newest collections from 800 suppliers of precious, designer and fashion jewellery, watches & clocks and related jewellery products, with Fashion Accessories alongside in hall 20.

The facts speak for themselves

The UK's largest retail exhibition

4,000 exhibitors from over 50 countries

The largest showcase of British designed product in the world

Thousands of exclusive product launches.

The essential Jewellery Party
Exclusively for the jewellery industry, this is one of the social events of the year. Be sure you can make it. Tickets £35+VAT,10% discount for ten tickets or more.
Visit www.springfair.com/jewellery or call +44 (0)20 8277 5882 for more info.

Sheldon Bloomfield Ltd are introducing over 500 new lines at the Spring fair.

Large, bold pieces are featured in precious and semi precious stones.

 

To view the range please call Heidi Bloomfield on 0113 2430 100 or visit the stand D33, Hall 17

“Curteis to showcase brand new additions to sophisticated inspired range at Spring Fair

Curteis, one of the UK's largest manufacturers of precious metal jewellery, will unveil five new collections at the Spring Fair Birmingham, inspired represents the company's first foray into branded intricate jewellery items available for independent retailers. Each product arrives with its own attractive Curteis packaging.

Curteis, who produce large quantities of quality chain and pieces for retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers worldwide, have taken influences from around the world and the early decades of the 20th century to produce five sophisticated lines that will be quickly snapped up in the rapidly changing, diverse and demanding jewellery market.

The five new collections are:

Galvanised – a chunky silver bracelet for gentlemen
featuring a truly masculine hammered metal finish.

Breeze - gold pieces fashioned with flower patterns cut through the metal that are reminiscent of dandelions

Cherish – gothic-inspired silver heart charm with amethyst, aventurine, onyx and garnet beads for dramatic effect

Geisha – delicate gold fans with fresh water pearls and apatite beads that embraces inspiration from the orient

Noir – simple silver drops with spinel bead detail taking its influence from the cool Art Deco period

The Curteis stand at the Spring Fair Birmingham 2006 is located in Hall 17, stand C24. Join us there to view the sensational Curteis display.

For further details please call the Curteis' UK sales team on 0800 195 6771 or email sales@curteis.com alternatively check out the company website at www.curteis.com

DESIGN COMPETITION

MOISSANITE IS ME™

In Charles & Colvard's inaugural British design competition entrants are being asked to design a collection of 18ct gold moissanite jewellery specifically created with the self-purchasing woman in mind.

WIN A TRIP TO LAS VEGAS

Open Category

The winner of the open category will receive an exciting trip which includes Virgin Atlantic return flights from London to Las Vegas and three nights at one of the city's luxury hotels. The winner will also be the guest of Charles & Colvard at JCK Las Vegas – the industry's largest and most glamorous trade event – and will be treated to a celebratory dinner with the company on one night during their stay.

The winner and runners up will also receive up to £500 worth of moissanite jewels with which to create their designs.

Entry criteria

All independent, professional, British jewellery designers and designers working within British jewellery firms of any size are eligible to take part.

The brief

• To design a collection of jewellery – a ring, a pendant and some earrings - in 18ct gold with particular appeal to a woman treating herself.

• The short-listed designers will be given the Moissanite necessary to allow them to create their designs for the final round of the competition.

• The competition will be judged by a panel of independent jewellery experts based in the United Kingdom.

• The first round will be judged from drawings produced either by hand or using a computer aided design package.

• The jewellery must be designed using Moissanite jewels, which can be in any combination of sizes. A price guide to moissanite and to the size and shapes of stones available will be supplied with the entry form.

• RRPs for each of the three pieces should fall within the £250 - £1500 price range.

See us on Stand 17, F31

Student Category

Win £500 in cash

Charles & Colvard, creators of Moissanite, are committed to the furtherance of great design and are thus delighted to also sponsor a competition for the UK's student designers. Full or part-time students at any British college or university are free to enter our Student Design Category, which will be judged from drawings only. The prize will be £500 in cash. For further information and to receive your entry form contact Liz Woodward at the contact details listed.

THE CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES IS 31 March, 2007

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO RECEIVE AND ENTRY FORM

Telephone: Liz Woodward 01993 811099

Email: competition@moissanite.co.uk

www.moissanite.co.uk/competition



Quality the watchword for Emagold at Spring Fair Birmingham

This year's Emagold Pavilion (Hall 17, C24 – E31) offers buyers a greater choice of fine designs than ever before.

The quality jewellery manufacturers' group Emagold has plenty of innovative ideas for Spring 2007 to assist those retailers who demand that little bit more from their suppliers. As usual, members of the Group, including several new recruits, will be showing together on the landmark Pavilion in Hall 17 and the range of products on offer has never been stronger or more diverse.

The new members, all of whom are showing at Spring Fair, either on or near the Emagold Pavilion are the Birmingham manufacturer OJS, the Essex wedding ring producer Renoir, the international manufacturer and distributor The GW Group (Graham Woods) and Euro Findings, the international supplier of bullion, findings, components and mounts.

Other exhibitors at the show are long-standing group members Centre Jewellery, Cookson Precious Metals, Curteis, Domino, IBB, T A Durant, Hean and Saunders Shepherd Group.

The product offering will be extremely diverse, covering everything from castings, CAD/CAM services, bullion, mounts and findings to stylish, finished gemset and diamond jewellery in silver, gold and platinum. The stand will even see the launch of ‘Brilliante' a new, tarnish resistant silver alloy from Cookson Precious Metals.

“The ethos of the group is to add value and to offer a guarantee of quality and ethical trading. That is what the Solar Mark – the little gold sun that members stamp alongside their hallmark on all 18ct gold products - is all about,” says Emagold President, John Coupland.

Happy Hour

As usual at the trade fairs it attends, the Emagold Group will be running a Happy Hour each day of Spring Fair for the final hour of the show. “ We do hope that our customers and potential customers will visit the stand, put their feet up and indulge in a glass of fizz courtesy of Emagold before heading home,” says John Coupland.

EURO FINDINGS

NEW WEBSITE.

The new Euro Findings website features the full comprehensive range of our designs and products.

With a host of new features designed for customers from all aspects of the trade, the website is aimed at being a quick online reference guide used for instant quotes on pricing, weights and sizing.

Fully dynamic pricing enables our customers to get live accurate prices and weights in line with the latest precious metal fix rates. This feature is designed to be incredibly useful for customers that constantly have to contact us for the weights on wedding bands in particular finger sizes or the price of a sheet of metal cut to specific dimensions.

Throughout the site each section (i.e. Collets, Finished Mounts etc.) has a step by step search facility that can filter products down into multiple category levels, this can prove very useful to view all products of a particular style.

Trade customers who apply for an online account will have full access to product pricing and will be able to place orders online.

www.eurofindings.com

EURO FINDINGS AT SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM.

Euro Findings / Euro Mounts will be launching their new 2007 collection of ring mounts and their new catalogue at the Spring Fair Birmingham on 4-8 February 2007. Stand no. E35 - Hall 17.

For any further information regarding the above please contactPeter Tuson (Euro Findings MD) Tel:020 7404 5762 orAlan Bentley (Euro Findings Marketing Department) Mobile Tel: 0793 0570160.

Euro Findings. 5-9 Hatton Wall, Hatton Garden, London, EC1N 8HX.

PH WEDDING RINGS

The new PH Wedding Ring range features several new and exciting themes summarised in print in a handy sized new catalogue.

One of the collections in the innovative new range is where PH uses miniature engraved romantic statements in text turning it into the appearance of an attractive pattern.

Supported by point of sales literature, and backed up by PHs' excellent customer service this collection is a new angle sure to create interest from customers new and old. Of course PH not only remain at the forefront of decorative wedding ring manufacture they continue to provide the best customer service and satisfaction. With every customer, small and large, new and old, receiving a dedicated and personal service. With years of experience all the staff appreciate the importance of a timely and accurate processing of your order. With our workshop located here in the UK we remain flexible and experts in our field - we look forward to catching up with all our customers new and old at the spring fair where we will be in Hall 17 stand B6.

Bransom Launch their New Stock Management system on 5th February 2007

Bransom, the leading supplier of stock systems into the retail jewellery trade for the last 27 years announce the launch of their new bsmart (Bransom Stock Management And Retail Technology) system.

“New smarter technologies are being developed at an exciting pace and we are now in a position to fully exploit them and bring new systems to the market quicker and more cost effectively” says Chris Garland MD Bransom.

Over 50,000 hours and 100 years of retail jewellery experience are behind the development of the new stock management system, the only UK based system dedicated to the retail jewellery trade. The system fully integrates the EPOS system with stock management, labelling, imaging and customer marketing through to a full accounting package.

“Assuming that other systems can do many or all of the Bransom package functions the main benefit is Bransom itself. The Bransom management and support staff are excellent, friendly, helpful and knowledgeable”

Bill Ferris, Swag Jewellers

Bransom are a total system provider capable of controlling the whole installation from providing hardware, cabling, building and configuring PC's through to state of the art Windows server systems with VPN and wide area networks. As well as providing full training and support packages, Bransom can also help jewellers put in place internal procedures and processes to help with management controls and buying analysis.

However, the biggest benefits come from cost savings, improved buying and better stock turn. These benefits ultimately provide the jeweller with increased profitability. Bransom provide full training with their system and also run refresher courses and management courses countrywide to help jewellers achieve their full potential.

Bransom pride themselves on being the only system to ever be recommended by the National Association of Goldsmiths. Michael Hoare of the NAG will officially launch the new system with a champagne reception on 5th February at the NEC Spring Fair.

For further information, please contact:
Daren Daniels
Sales and Marketing
Tel: 08458 810509
Email: sales@bransom.co.uk Web: www.bransom.co.uk

Paula Bolton

Something different really means something different for Paula Bolton. Look for Gaudi, Klimt and Celtic inspirations in her stylish new collections.

Delicate bridal pearls and a new range of well priced stylish beads and beaded handbags complete a very comprehensive collection of accessories.

Hall 4 stand E87 and Hall 18 stand F32.

Tel 01625 574444 www.paulabolton.com

Ag Silver launches Spring 2007 Collection

Contemporary jewellery company Ag Silver will launch its new Spring Collection at Spring Fair 2007 (Hall 18, Stand B19). With additions made to all collections, the new range combines elegance and simplicity with beautiful designs in silver, natural stones and freshwater pearls in the key colours for the new season: water tones of green and blue, strawberry and pure white.



email: enquiries@agsilver.co.uk
web: www.agsilver.co.uk


Marcus McCallum

Based in Hatton Garden for 24 years, Marcus McCallum has always specialised in the unusual and one off. With the current trend towards colour we are well placed with a wide range of stones including, tourmaline, aquamarine, alexandrite, chrysoberyl, tanzanite, tsavorite and many more. We have three qualified gemmologists on the team to answer technical questions and will always attempt to source stones that we do not have in stock.

Over the years we have built up a wide range of freshwater cultured pearls of all types in strands, loose pairs and singles. We also have wide stock of semi-precious stone beads in unusual and better quality materials.

To see our full range of stock please phone for an appointment to visit our showroom or we can visit you with a selection of goods to your requirements.

Visit us at the NEC Spring Fair Hall 17 H19.


Unique Jewelry Ltd

Stand 18 A1

Unique Jewelry, the innovative company for modern design-led jewellery will launch exciting new designs at the Spring Fair. Further to their successful collection in Stainless Steel and Titanium they will introduce a new Tungsten collection. Unique Jewelry is also well known for its modern and exciting designs in Sterling Silver 925 and for unusual and interesting material combinations creating new forms and shapes. Contact Tel: 020 7405 5523

Gemex Hall 17 Stand F2

Gemex will be unveiling one of the largest coloured gemstone and diamond ranges this Spring Fair. Large fine coloured gemstones will be on offer in abundance, especially in Tanzanites, Rubies, Sapphires, Emeralds, Aquamarines, Pink Sapphires, Opals, Fire Opals, Peridots and Amethysts. Since 1967, as one of Europe's leading gem merchants, Gemex has its own cutting factory in Bangkok where it cuts rough material obtained from sights worldwide.

This company really are a mine to market business with extremely competitive prices backed by a next day delivery service. Also on show is Gemex's much talked about Pink Rocks range which has been a phenomenal success in 2006 with over 125 U.K. stockists.

The company aims to build on that success by unveiling 30 new stunning platinum designs set with pink and white diamonds. Gemex currently features this product in Vogue magazine and anticipates strong sales for 2007.

GEMEX

Est 1967
Members of the British Jewellers Association

Europe's Premier Gemsource

Stand F2 - SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM FEB 2007

Stands G50/G55 - I.J.L. EARLS COURT SEPT 2007

Tel: +44 (0) 207 242 1080

 

Kayman Award 2007 – winners announced

The design-led jewellery company F&L (UK) Ltd has won the Kayman Award 2007, a prestigious annual jewellery design competition organised by the British Jewellers' Association, sponsored by Spring Fair Birmingham and supported by BJGF Federation and Retail Jeweller magazine.

This year's Award is for ‘Party Pieces'- collections of fashionable gold and coloured stone jewellery for special occasions. The winning collection was designed by Chinese born Fei Liu, whose young company F&L (UK) is based in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter.

Liu has taken the delicate natural beauty of coral, as the inspiration for his winning ‘Dawn' collection. The result is highly textured, boldly adorned and colourful jewellery – perfect for dressing up and with real appeal to anyone seeking a more individualistic look. The collection which includes a choice of mix and match necklaces, pendants, rings, earrings and bracelets features a range of faceted gemstones including garnet, citrine, topaz and pink amethyst mixed with diamonds and pearls.

The judging panel, which included retailers, designers and jewellery journalists, was unanimous in its praise. In a statement issued after the judging they said: “These designs are intricate and beautiful and have a wonderful fluidity when being worn. This is real old style glamour brought bang up to date.”

Second prize went to Simon Pure of Guildford. Designer Steve Parson's took the sparkle of moving water as the inspiration for his ‘Waterfall' collection, which uses blue sapphire and Tanzanian spinel to great effect. The judges liked the clean, strong lines of this deliberately understated collection and felt the jewellery would be the perfect accompaniment for any party dress.

Third in the competition was Erica Sharpe Fine Jewellery. The Birthday Boogie Woogie Collection, which was designed by Erica Sharpe, is extremely colourful and incorporates amethyst, morganite, aquamarine and iolite. The judges praised the versatility of this collection.

Two further companies were ‘Highly Commended'. The Cascade Collection from Janetti Design and the Retrospective Collection by Fameo Ltd were both praised by the judges for their excellent workmanship and interesting use of stones.

“We were delighted with the strong response to this competition and feel sure that buyers at Spring Fair will be very interested to see the imaginative and commercial ways in which the winning companies have interpreted the brief for the competition,” says the BJA's Lindsey Straughton.

“Jewellery at Spring Fair now hosts some 800 suppliers across three dedicated halls, and is an essential event for hundreds of British designers and manufacturers. Our sponsorship of the Kayman Award underlines our commitment to supporting and publicising the very best of British design and manufacture across the show,” says Anna Bladen, marketing manager of Spring Fair Birmingham.

The five winning collections will be on display at Spring Fair Birmingham 4th – 8h February, 2007 on the BJA Stand A34 in Hall 17.

A CHANCE TO WIN A COURSE IN GEMMOLOGY

Buyers visiting Spring Fair are being invited to judge a further category of the Award and gain the chance to win a three-day course in gemmology for beginners. Interested parties can cast their own vote to decide which of the five winning collections should scoop the further accolade of :
‘Kayman Award - The Buyers' Choice'.

All those who vote will be entered into a Prize Draw for the opportunity to win a ‘Gemmology Basics' three-day training course at the School of Jewellery in Birmingham from 10-12 July, 2007. The prize, which will not be exchanged for cash, is worth £295.

UKAS Accreditation puts AnchorCert Diamond Certification in a Market Leading Position

The demand for Diamond Certification is increasing rapidly in the UK. Nearly every High Street jeweller now offers a selection of certificated pieces. The AnchorCert Diamond Certification Service at The Birmingham Assay Office is reporting sales increases of over 50%. Gordon Hamme talked to Marketing Director, Marion Wilson, about what is driving this trend.

“There are two major factors”, explained Marion. “The first is consumer demand. The internet has changed the way people shop. Even if they choose to make a face to face purchase on the High Street, many people do their research on the internet first. They gain knowledge and make price comparisons and arrive at the retailer with a much more specific idea of what they want in terms of quality and value. Diamonds are usually a considered purchase and the customer is looking for reassurance that they have made a good choice and got what they paid for. And of course they still want their jewellery to look stunning as well. For those buying direct from the net, a certificate to authenticate quality is even more important.”

“The other factor is trade reassurance. The consumer is not yet aware of the level of treatments and synthetics which are now available, but the trade are. We are continually surprised by the rising number of enhanced stones we see at AnchorCert, particularly small ones. The treatments are increasingly refined and difficult to detect. Some of our customers see certification as an informal “due diligence” exercise to protect their business and reputation, as well as adding value to their diamonds”, says Marion

AnchorCert is clear evidence of the expanding market. Established as a division of the Birmingham Assay Office only five years ago, AnchorCert now also has an office in Hatton Garden, headed by the esteemed gemmologist Eric Emms. Customers include prestigious retailers, importers and manufacturers and services include coloured stone and pearl identification as well as diamonds.

AnchorCert have pioneered the grading of mounted stones in a big way, in response to the high volume of finished product arriving from the Far East. After a major investment in software, staff training and high tech equipment, AnchorCert Birmingham has recently gained UKAS accreditation to ISO 17025, confirmation of their competence and rigorous, clearly defined work processes. AnchorCert are the only diamond service in the world to have achieved this accreditation for mounted stones. The fact that The Birmingham Assay Office saw fit to make the significant investment in time and resources required to achieve this clearly demonstrates their confidence in the growth of the demand for diamond certification.

The investment has paid off. AnchorCert Diamond Certification has enjoyed its most successful Christmas ever with sales over 50% up on last year during the last three months of 2006. Additional staff had to be recruited to maintain the five day turn round time and ensure that every customer received the high standard of service they deserved. The forecast for 2007 is upbeat. It would seem that diamond certification is here to stay.

See AnchorCert at Spring Fair at the NEC from 4-8 February – Hall 17 Stand D39.

SAFEGUARD Independent Jewellery Valuation Business Is Booming

SafeGuard – the Independent Jewellery Valuation Service, finished 2006 on a high note with valuations arriving right up until Christmas and new customers joining the SafeGuard network in late November. Having achieved a record number of successful Event Days during 2006 the valuers are now planning for an even more successful 2007.

The business is being driven by the sheer enthusiasm and determination of its team. Aside from the personal expertise of its valuers, led by Senior Valuer Jim Potts, SafeGuard boasts a dedicated administration team under the management of Carla Goodfellow and is supported by Marketing Coordinator, Kelly Fisher and Account Manager, Marie Chalmers.

Spring Fair will see the launch of a new look for SafeGuard consumer materials. Marketing Director, Marion Wilson explains. “SafeGuard's credibility and integrity is underpinned by its' being part of The Birmingham Assay Office. We want to be sure that the consumer appreciates this and we have therefore produced a new high quality look, in line with our AnchorCert Diamond Certification Marketing Materials, which have been very well received.” Promotional leaflets are available to customers free of charge.

SafeGuard were also the pioneer of in store Valuation Event Days and demand for these continues to grow. As the pattern of retail changes, one of the factors which really differentiates the traditional High Street jeweller from multi department fashion stores and internet sellers is their specialist expertise and experience and the personal service which many shoppers still appreciate. Having a highly qualified SafeGuard Valuer in store for a day, offering face to face consultations with customers is an excellent way to underline the expertise available and reinforce the message that this is a “real” jeweller. The benefits extend far beyond the valuation charges on the day as the Event will bring back regular customers, create spend on repairs and impulse buys and offers staff the opportunity to build on their relationship with the customer. So great is the demand for SafeGuard that they are currently looking to recruit more valuers in order to meet customer demand.
Newest addition to the SafeGuard network is Herbert Brown, the Yorkshire based pawnbrokers. Their business is growing rapidly and when their resident valuer left the business in November, SafeGuard was the obvious choice to provide a valuation service for their 26 shops. Account Manager Marie Chalmers says “This arrangement is good common sense for Herbert Brown. The company has the benefit of only paying for valuations when they are required and they know that they will always receive a rapid turn round, and a professional and consistent product. We are very pleased to welcome them to the SafeGuard network.”

See SafeGuard at Spring Fair at the NEC from 4-8 February – Hall 17 Stand D39.

Hot Diamonds Valentines Sterling Silver

Hot Diamonds have created a stunning range of heart inspired jewellery. This inspirational Valentines collection have a mix of classic and modern hearts some featuring 9ct gold plated accents.

All jewellery is rhodium plated sterling silver set with brilliant cut diamonds, some lines feature 9ct gold plated accents. The pendants are supplied on a 16” (extendable to 18”) rhodium plated sterling silver box chain. All lines come beautifully presented in a wooden gift box making it the perfect gift for someone special. Trade prices from £13 - £37 and retail between £35 and £100.

Hot Diamonds Valentines Gold

Hot Diamonds launches their Valentines 9ct gold collection, a true symbol of love and devotion, hearts in all shapes and sizes each set with brilliant cut diamonds. All lines come beautifully presented in a wooden gift box making it the perfect gift for someone special. Trade prices from £22 - £48 and retail between £55 and £120.

Hot Diamonds ‘A charmed life' Special Edition

Hot Diamonds introduces an exquisite series of special edition charms perfect for a loved one or a special occasion. Each individual charm comes luxuriously packaged in a stunning velvet and silk jewellery roll. All jewellery is rhodium plated sterling silver set with brilliant cut diamonds, some charms feature 9ct gold plated details. Trade prices from £13 to £16.50 and retail between £35 and £45.

For more information please contact the Hot Diamonds Group on 0118 975 3331.



trollbeads KICKS OFF 2007 WITH A NEW GOLD SCROLL BEAD, AN ANNIVERSARY BRACELET AND A HOST OF SPECIAL VALENTINE'S BEADS.

The complete collection of original and authentic Danish trollbeads will be showing at the Birmingham Spring Fair in Hall 17 on stand K60.

Targeted exclusively at high quality independent jewellers in the UK, the trollbeads range of over 300 intricately designed individual beads has become hugely popular since its launch at International Jewellery London in 2005.

New to this year's collection is an 18 carat gold scroll bead which joins the small and large silver versions introduced in September 2006. Unique to trollbeads, the scroll bead is a completely different concept in bead design featuring a scroll shape which is individually inscribed with a chosen message. Customers select their own words for inscription and within two to three weeks receive a very unique bead featuring their personal message.

With Valentine's Day just around the corner, the scrollbeads are bound to be a popular purchase to get that very special message across.

To celebrate the most romantic day of the year trollbeads customers can also choose from a selection of individual beads designed specifically with love in mind; from a specific Valentine's bead featuring six hearts surrounding Swarwoski crystals in three different shades of red, to a selection of silver and gold heart beads, a bouquet bead, a cherub bead and finally the ultimate bead of affection, the gold and diamond X shaped Kiss – designed to be given to the person with whom you are in love.

For dedicated fans of the trollbeads jewellery collection, the Danish design company has introduced a very special limited edition bracelet to mark the end of its 30th anniversary year. All of the beads featured on the special trollbeads Anniversary bracelet, save an individual freshwater pearl, will never again be recreated, making this a true collector's piece.

Details of two completely new additions to the trollbeads jewellery collection are still under wraps - so keep an eye out for this original and unique range of jewellery which is attracting a huge following throughout the UK

Tel: 0117 3774212
email: info@fabletrading.co.uk

DAVRAN

“Something old something new,” could sum up Davran's selection of stamped spinning charms from the past, now worn also as pendants. These are a fun item, unlike most jewellery, and can bring out the child in most of us.

Davran is reintroducing these for the NEC this year, customers who remember them from years ago keep asking for them, and responding to customer demand, in perhaps an uncharacteristic way , they are now stocking four of the nine, in 9ct and silver. “I LOVE YOU” as a heart and round disc, “GOOD LUCK” (round) and “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” (round)

The others in the range; for which tooling exists and could be made; are. “I'M IN CHARGE”, “GOING STEADY”, “HAPPY DAYS”, “
MY DARLING” and “KISS ME”

Tel: 0121 523 1662

H.W.Tankel (Scotland) Ltd

Tankel approach 2007 full of confidence after a successful year in 2006. Many new accounts were opened throughout the U.K and Ireland.

The success of our range with Asscher Cut Diamonds has continued and the amount of unsolicited repeat orders is quite unprecedented. Spring fair will see stunning new additions being shown for the first time. The exclusivity of the product – only one stockist in any town – and its uniqueness, together with the supply of window display and photographs enables the retail jeweller at the middle to high end of the market to show their customers a new exciting collection.

H.W.Tankel have also produced some lovely new patterns in our normal range for the Spring Fair. The company strives to provide an excellent service and new customers confirm this really does happen. Our expertise is in providing the retailer with attractive and distinctive diamond jewellery that sells.

See us in Hall 17 Stand C19



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J-dex World of Diamonds
By Gordon Hamme


GRAFF DIAMONDS PRESENT & FUTURE


2006 has been an extraordinary year for Graff. Internationally recognised as a top global diamond jewellery brand Graff received its fourth Queen's Award and in New York Graff opened its corporate headquarters as well as further store expansion in the US and Middle East. Its London workshops doubled making it one of the largest inhouse fine jewellery workshops in the world. Graff has also been breaking records at auction – a record price of $425,000 a carat was paid for a cushion cut 8.62 carat ruby which was immediately named ‘The Graff Ruby'. Graff's next major acquisition was the 603 carat Lesotho Promise diamond, the 15th largest rough diamond ever discovered. It will be a year before this diamond yields its hidden riches.



At a press conference at Kensington Palace Laurence Graff unveiled The Dream Diamond, an exceptional intense yellow diamond weighing 100.09 carats cut from a rough crystal of 190.72 carats. This was also an opportunity to explain Graff's initiative in Botswana.

Graff could not allow a polishing diamond industry to develop in Gaborone without some manner of participation on its part, so Graff took the lead and is working together with the Botswana government to facilitate this progression which it is doing through a bricks and mortar development called the Diamond Technology Park. Graff has a vision for the Diamond Technology Park to house the Botswana diamond industry in a finite, secure environment that will stimulate efficient business by providing all the relevant services to the industry in situ.

With 20 stores worldwide and corporate offices in London, New York and Geneva 2007 will see the opening of flagship stores in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Geneva with more to follow. Graff's vision is to continue to be the world leaders in diamonds and fine jewellery with a unique commitment to their product, craft and the ultimate diamond dream.



For further information please contact:

Fiona Spence on 0207 584 8571

Smolensk Kristall presents the most expensive diamond in the company's history

At the Jewellers Guild Show of 2006 held in Moscow in early November the major Russian polished diamonds manufacturer, Smolensk Kristall presented the most expensive diamond manufactured in the company's over 40 years of history.

The value of the unique emerald-cut diamond weighing 33.64 carats is estimated at around $1.3 million. The stone was cut from the original rough diamond 68.28 carats in weight, which had been purchased by Kristall at the international auction for diamonds of special sizes run by ALROSA, the biggest Russian diamond producer.
Smolensk Kristall is the major Russian polished diamonds manufacturer set up in 1963. Since 1998 Kristall is the first and until now the only Russian DTC Sightholder.



The company has created a broad international trade network, gaining a wide clientele in major international diamond centers. Its representation offices are located in Belgium, Hong Kong, Israel, the USA and the UAE.

Contact details: Serafima Rudneva
Tel/Fax: +7 (4812) 31-00-46


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Trends: The Rise of Bespoke

By Claire Adler

A growing group of exceptionally wealthy individuals is setting new standards in the jewellery market. As luxury becomes a mainstream concept, consumers are looking for ways to distinguish their own style. Claire Adler looks at an increased demand for bespoke commissions.

At a luxury conference hosted late last year by the International Herald Tribune, the chairman and CEO of luxury conglomerate Pinault Printemps Redoute, announced the global luxury industry is at a major turning point.

Over the past decade the industry has focussed on making luxury available to a broader audience, by producing an abundance of lower priced accessories, capitalising on middle market consumers who are keen to trade up.

Now is the time for the high end to respond by differentiating itself from the middle market, believes Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman of PPR, whose portfolio of companies includes Boucheron, Gucci, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen.

Meanwhile, wealthy consumers, for their part, seem to be catching on to this desire to distinguish their tastes from mainstream luxury. A number of major players in the jewellery world are noticing a marked increase in requests for bespoke commissions. After all, a key motivator for owning luxury is the enjoyment of owning something others have not seen before.

Milton Pedraza, president of New York's Luxury Institute, believes that as people become wealthier, unless they are collectors, they tend to buy fewer, but far more expensive luxury goods, while enjoying great service experiences.

Perhaps all of this explains why bespoke jewellery is an important trend we're now witnessing. Enlisting the services of a team of creatives dedicated to sourcing stones and producing something completely unique certainly has a lot to do with the experience as well as the finished product.

Many jewellers are reluctant to give details away on the subject, careful to protect the privacy of their patrons.

However, Geffroye Medinger, Van Cleef & Arpels UK retail director, reveals that the demand for one-off commissions has “been growing quite dramatically recently”.

Unusual commissions include a bird cage crafted from white gold and adorned with diamonds, a gold and diamond studded “moussoir” used to break the bubbles in your champagne, a diamond necklace for a Parisian cat and a bracelet encased in a chocolate Easter egg. A customer with over 50 grandchildren commissions a Van Cleef & Arpels charm each time another arrives in the world.

“The trend started about two to three years ago and we've seen it grow,” says Medinger. “It fits into the vintage trend, people are looking for something unique. Around 20-30% of our bespoke work is inspired by antique jewels.”

When the Iranian Shah requested that 200 family gems were incorporated into a bespoke commission for a family wedding, the stones were not allowed to leave the country. A team of Van Cleef & Arpels designers and craftspeople flew out to Tehran and held meetings in The National Jewellery Treasury housed within the Iran's Central Bank.

Van Cleef & Arpels was also responsible for bespoke jewellery worn by the lead in the recent Royal Opera House production of Tosca, after a detailed brief was provided by the costume director. Having been worn in eight performances, the jewellery, which includes a cross encrusted with a 35 carat diamond, is now for sale in Bond Street.

Details or surprises in the design, which only the owner knows about are particularly popular, says Medinger, emphasizing the flexibility and comfort of Van Cleef & Arpels workmanship – including the legendary zip necklaces that actually zip up.

In some cases, what starts out as personalising a piece from an existing range metamorphoses into a project to create an entirely new collection. “We were asked to create a ring which incorporated themes from the Rose de Noel collection and also the Van Cleef & Arpels concept of a ring constructed to rest delicately across several fingers,” says Medinger. “We're now developing that combination to produce a new collection.”

At Boucheron just across the street, jewellery made on request is a huge part of the business, although it is kept extremely private, according to the brand's publicist Natalia Cassel.

Famously, in the 1950s, French artist Jean Cocteau approached Boucheron to turn a necklace from one of his drawings into reality for a close friend. The piece was realised in yellow gold, rubies and round pearls set in platinum. More recently, this design became the blueprint for the Delilah scarf of woven gold worn by Nicole Kidman as a hair band.

Over in Hatton Garden, the increased interest in one-off pieces is being felt at R Holt & Co, London's most renowned supplier of loose gemstones.

“We have unquestionably had a rapid growth in special one-off cuts for both trade and retail,” says director Jason Holt. A number of our trade clients are requesting bespoke cuts to incorporate into bespoke commissions for their customers. We have never been busier in cutting “specials” as we term them - bespoke gems that are extremely unique and would never go into mass production.”

On the retail side, Holts is experiencing the same pattern. “Customers are now beginning to understand that they can have a jewel specially made for them with their own design,” says Holt, who believes this is a key growth area for retailers currently squeezed on margins on imported goods.

But bespoke is all about service, adds Holt, who gave up his career as a solicitor to join the family business and received the Queen's Award for Enterprise last year.

“The customer is buying an experience and not just a product,” he says.

Theo Fennell has long specialised in bespoke jewellery. He has noticed that there seem to be more people around with the money to indulge themselves. “As we have got bigger, so we have more commissions,” says Fennell.

“Clients interested in bespoke jewellery are after something individual. They are bored by all the similar accessories trotted out by big brands. They have the self-confidence to make a statement about design.”

Fennell admits his recent private commissions include the application of “exciting” arcane crafts such as deep engraving and carving. “I always hope jewellery will steer clear of trends so it doesn't become like handbags, but people are far more adventurous now and more knowledgeable about unusual stones. There are more people out there who are prepared to take a risk,” he says.

The likelihood is that as more people continue to commission individual pieces, there will be a shift away “from mass-produced jewellery masquerading as designer pieces”, says Fennell


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Wedding Ring Round Up

By Gordon Hamme

Manufacturing basics

There are four ways of making mass produced wedding ring blanks withother processes after that being the alterations and additions to the basic ring blank once it has been manufactured.

The system which produces the largest volumes of blanks is the Klinkmanufacturing system named after the German engineer, Karl Klink, whoinvented it. In simple terms sheet metal is milled into various thicknesses out of which is stamped a small washer, this is then inverted and formed into a doughnut shape which is then spun up on a rolling machine to form the wedding ring blank. The system is actually very fast and efficient apart for the scrap produced from the waste sheet and the centre from doughnut, but with good management the metal can be reprocessed at relatively low cost. The advantages are speed and quality which is high due to starting with sheet metal which further compresses during the manufacturing process to allow for a very high polished finish. A slight disadvantage is the burr left on the sides of the blank which has to be removed before sizing and polishing.

The next most popular manufacturing system uses precious metal tubewhich is parted off at the relevant widths needed. Tube is even higher quality than Klink manufactured blanks and is very popular with continental wedding ring manufacturers. Often the tube is milled on a lathe to create the shapes needed by jewellers, court and D being the most popular. The by-product of milling is the swarf which has to be reprocessed, hence the system is more expensive than Klink but higher quality and more flexible.

In the last ten years powder technology has improved which creates the paste to produce wedding ring blanks. This has the advantage of shaping the blanks at the first manufacturing stage and then not having any waste swarf or metal scrap to deal with. In recent years one of the biggest manufacturers has swapped over to powder technology with no adverse quality issues.

Shaped wedding rings often use wax carving as the initial process formanufacture. Once the size and shape has been achieved the wax is cast using the lost wax casting system. Wedding ring manufacturers have avoided casting blanks in the past due to porosity especially on large flat surfaces.

Simple bands are being produced using lost wax casting and are becoming more difficult to tell apart from Klink or tube made blanks despite some quality problems.

Once these basic systems have produced the blank the individual manufacturers have created endless variations using diamond milling, hand engraving, enamelling and stone setting to personalise and beautify the blanks. Different companies use different techniques to carve a market niche in this highly competitive market.

Baird & Co.

In the last few years Baird & Co, the London based bullion house, have added wedding ring production to their range of in-house manufactured products which include stampings, sheet, wire, grain, findings and investment bars.

For Baird & Co platinum wedding ring production can be anything up to50% of overall wedding ring manufacture. Tony Baird, the managing director, explains that court and flat court shaped wedding rings are the most popular of all the profiles his company produces. “In the last year we have had increased interest in palladium wedding rings also,” he says. Baird & Co carry a large stockholding of over 10,000 finished wedding rings to enable them to provide the rapid postal service they offer to retail jewellers, “We try TO offer a 48 hour service on patterned and polished rings in every metal from 9ct through to platinum,” says Tony Baird.

The company sees a big future for palladium products and has worked hard on developing its Bianco range of Tru White palladium wedding rings which it launched last year. The Bianco range of patterned bands in palladium as well as the gold and platinum ranges are supported by free point of sale marketing material in the form of a fully illustrated booklet for clients to give to their customers. The company also offers modestly priced silver sample sets in plain and patterned bands for retail display. The 2007 sales catalogue will be available very soon says Tony Baird.

McClure – MarryGold Wedding Rings

We spoke to Richard Ball general manager of McClure, based in Hatton Garden. The company carries a large range of wedding rings in stock supported by on-site pattern making and finishing.

Richard explained, “We offer a fast efficient service to all our trade customers who need diamond cut, hand-engraved and stone set wedding rings.”

It is still plain bands that are the most popular of all the bands sold with court and D shapes being the favourites and flats some way behind. Richard has seen growth in demand for 22ct bands from unexpected retailers. As with others Richard has seen platinum grow in importance. He commented, “ I think there is prestige value in owning a platinum wedding band borne of the shear cost.”

The company prides itself on its service and often delivers for the next day. “We always respond to customer requests which include shaped wedding bands which can involve handling the customer's engagement ring, so as to make up the perfect match.”

Bien – Launching into the Palladium market

Amber Saunders of Bien explains, “We are delighted to introduce the jewellery trades best kept secret – Palladium 950 – and now this amazing metal is available from the UK's foremost wedding ring manufacturer, bien passionate jewellery.

For those consumers with a budget that simply can't stretch to Platinum, the ‘bien' Palladium collection is perfectly price pointed. Slightly more expensive than 9ct white gold, this collection provides the ideal white metal alternative that will never need rhodium coating to retain its colour.

“We're delighted with the coll