A 40% increase in sales made beads the top seller at the 21st annual Intergem fair in Idar Oberstein Germany October 2005. Brilliant cut sapphires compete with coloured diamonds for looks. Cost cutting Asian suppliers offer a solution!

MW Edelstein's aquamarine beads cut as cubes, cylinders and tubes made an impact as ornamental bead styles followed European fashions'. Moving into the avant garde, buyers saw a new look in a variety of shapes and finishes. Rows of milky beads, sparkly faceted strands and rough cut rugged chunks dazzled visitors in all shades of aquamarine. White freshwater pearls made a comeback in mixed shapes, emphasising the bold black and white themes predicted for summer 2006 along with strings of highly faceted rock crystal and lava stone. The ever growing demand for multicoloured crystals supported the ongoing trend for colour in fashion led gemstone jewellery. www.MW-Edelsteine.de

Technical know how

Original thinkers, Karin Marxreiter and Torsten Weber have perfected the art of making jewellery without metal by using modern technology to create gem art. This innovation follows a demand for natural stone jewellery along with the search for treatment free gemstones. Torsten said ‘there has been a 25% increase in agate, cobalt and calcite sales this year which is a popular choice for international business.There are trends towards coloured gems, back to nature and unique natural stone jewellery without the use of metal'.

Famous for his lapidary art and commissioned by such names as Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and the Royal Family of Saudi Arabia, Master Gemstone Carver Hans-Ulrich Pauly celebrated his 20th year in business, at the show. His company debuted the ‘Stone Button' collection using natural drusy agate and petrified palm tree. The Art of Carving company created a range of carved gemstones shaped like mushrooms, these organic gem buttons making ideal cufflinks. Crafted to fit into a typical buttonhole ‘Stone Buttons' can be embellished with gemstones or metal. Hans – Ulrich explained ‘with the return to formal business dress there is a new demand for men's power jewellery' ‘an interest in cufflinks is stronger than ever.

www.paulycarvings.com

Known for his ground breaking work in three dimensional stone cutting, often produced as wearable objects Lorenz Edelstein spoke of a ‘sell out' for his unique new cuts. Developed in sanded citrine, amethyst, crystal, smoky and rose quartz and described as strings, these memorable shapes appeared in tubular and futuristic in form.

www.lorenzedelsteindesign.de

Trends in cuts and colour

Speaking for the German Gemmological Association, Director of the laboratory Dr Claudio Milisenda explained how economies had been made to keep Idar's cutters competitive ‘The trade imports stones partly cut from India, China and Thailand' we then alter and perfect the cuts often losing a lot of weight in the process'.

Expensive research goes into new cuts and most recently The Context Cut, Spirit Sun and from Groh & Ripp the much acclaimed HR cut – high reflective cut -has given German cutters the edge over the competition. www.groh-ripp.de

Distinguished stone cutters and dealers Paul Wild displayed a show stopping array of the giant in colour for gemstones, blue Pariba which is much in demand with designers at the top end of the market.

Wild & Petsch expects trends to continue with pink stones leading the way. Morganite, tourmaline, rubelite and amethyst seem most popular with an emerging interest in fiery mandarin garnet following predictions for stronger colours as 2006. Jewellery styles continue to embrace ‘the pampel and briolette cuts for neckwear and earrings' J-dex was told ‘The new season will see pastel blues and greens as faceted gems are cut in round brilliants, ovals and octagons'.

www.wildpetsch.com

Emile Weis famous for his opal collection showing brilliant fire opals, added testimony to the prediction that there is a European trend for orange in 2006.

Managing Director of Karl Faller and Director of the German Gemmological Association Dr Konrad Henn had a different story as round cut cabochons, sapphires, emeralds and rubies sold well. He felt that his experience heralded a move upmarket in gemstone popularity. Shining gem quality moonstones some with deeply ingrained stars and cats eyes in warm translucent natural hues, made an alternative statement to the bolder and more obvious colours. Coloured Madagascan sapphires in pastel pinks, greens, yellows and violets, supplied as brilliants in sets and individual cuts looked set to compete on price with the much revered coloured diamond.

Looking forward visitors were told that a multifunctional hall situated at the national trade park will become the new site for Intergem by 2007.
www.intergem-messe.de