Brazilian exports are on the rise

Each year in August, Feninjer, the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Show in São Paolo showcases top jewellery manufacturing and design talent. For the 7th year running the Institute of Brazilian Gems and Metals predicts trends for the coming year at its 43rd show. ‘More and more of these styles will be seen worldwide'. With Brazilian exports on the rise, reaching US$ 530.5 million in the first half-year of 2006, and seeking to increase its share in overseas markets, a new agreement was made between IBGM and APEX Brazil. The signing of the R$ 13.8 million agreement was one of the highlights of the tradeshow, which was graced with the presence of the agency's president Juan Quirós and the Institute's president, Hécliton Santini Henriques.

Gay Jacqueline Gahan reports:-

Trends

Random cuts make ‘New luxury ‘ a headline trend as formality in design takes a back seat.

New Luxury

Trend setting manufacturing jewellers, Vancox, Brumani, Manoel Bernades, Vianna and Marcia Mor embraced the ‘new look' with luxury collections using natural mixed coloured gemstones of citrine, smoky quartz, amethyst, London blue topaz and opal. Seen as the most popular gemstones the collections embraced unusual cutting techniques flaunting incomplete lapidation.

Big rings continue to swamp the finger adding ‘colour riot' from mixed stones of high value, recognised as traditional gemstones, mixed with seasonal colours of less value stones.

Extremes appear to have made in roads into bold gemstone jewellery designs as Brazil takes its lead from the catwalk. ‘Brazil is in Vogue' it is seen as trendy and as part of a bigger culture referring to Tropicalia from the 60's bringing Indian culture into Brazilian designs.

‘The world now sees Brazilians as a trend'.

‘Described as ‘a set back global period' we must look for sophistication in something unique, carving, which is hard to accomplish, a very fine key single stone of high value, unique lapidation and sometimes two different shapes designed as a unique pair.

Anyway of loving is worthwhile

Long awaited, love decoration perfected a romantic trend with flowers in solitary splendour sometimes openwork paved in colour.

‘Commitment or wedding rings for yourself' a movement popular since the success of the movies ‘2046' and ‘Broke Back Mountain'. Erotic symbols have emerged using every aspect of the body as a theme. The nude is in the theme as are beautiful men and cowboys.

Wedding rings feature as pendants. ‘Wedding bands need no longer match for the married couple'. Marina from Bruner on their 40th anniversary. ‘Wear two wedding bands as a pendant'

Look for references as icons, names together in letters ‘Dolce & Gabbiana', seek hearts lockets and pictures.

Unspoken words, secret wedding band messages with internal inscriptions set in triple wedding rings or messages on the side of the rings. Messages from Plato or Ghandi for instance, use chains soldered to the side of the band with trailing hearts, which become a symbol of commitment, always with a message.

Religion, a further impact on design.

Danielle Metais from her signature tune collection at this years this show Religare

‘Religare' is the old Latin word for call, unite, redeem. At the present time, when humanity is appealing to spiritual values, the concept has an even more special significance: it represents the collective will to connect with faith and this enormous miracle we call life'.

Mandala's

The ultimate purpose of of a Mandala is to provide a method of ‘connecting with your “Source.”' Thought to have a profound impact on our lives, wearers purportedly experience visions from their unconscious bringing them closer to their sacred centre.

Shapes and Volumes

Simple non organic shapes predominate with many stones taken from nature contrasting with technology. Chains take on a chubby look with a blown effect sporting special highly technical finishes, sculptured or swollen links sometimes rose gold which supports an underlying trend towards richer gold colours for the future.

Fine filigree best seen in the range from Fiamma supports the ‘open space concept' exotic and flowing and the true influence of Tropicana.

Manoel Bernades sees the two key trends as Cut and colour powerfully influenced in his collections by rutile and rose qaurtz Manoel formed the Cosmic cut an orbital masterpiece with movement and the Links drilled from inside using unusually large holes.

Manoel uses colour cleverly ‘it stirs the emotions' he explains.